Amarone Opera Prima, preview 2017

Three days dedicated to the Amarone preview with the wines of Valpolicella as a side dish. A beautiful event that saw Verona at the top and the wines at their best.

Opera Prima, and hopefully not last! The people attending the last Amarone Preview, held in Verona, were actually divided between those who want the Preview again in June and those who would like to see it again in February. Me, June, without hesitation. And I will explain why. 

In June, Amarone is more ready than in February. In fact, I happened to taste more wines made and finished (so to speak) than barrel samples. Samples for which the effort of imagination must always be great. 

The warm season also allows one to enjoy in all respects the city of Verona, a city that "in the open air" gives so much and of which Amarone can be sovereign. 

Verona city of Love? No thanks, Verona city of Amarone! Here the Valpolicella appellation appropriates, borrowing them only it is obvious, the symbolic spaces of the Scaliger city. And it does so in its own right since, of the nearly 8600 hectares of vineyards, for 19 municipalities between Verona and its province, the beauty of 1300 are right in the municipality of Verona. News that should not surprise us being Verona a mostly hilly city, whose historic center is embraced by the Adige River that holds the Roman amphitheater that in Verona is called the Arena. "Opera Prima" refers precisely to the premiere of Aida in the Arena. Verdi's opera is the most beloved by the people of Verona, just think that even Hellas Verona's choirs are made to the triumphal march. And even I know that I don't care about soccer at all. 

The invitation to attend the premiere of Aida in fact came from the Consorzio di Tutela Vini della Valpolicella itself, to make this Amarone Experience even more memorable. An arduous and difficult undertaking especially taking into account that the previous evening there had been a gala dinner at the exclusive Giardino Giusti; continuing to surprise at this point was certainly not easy. I saw all of Aida, and savored all four acts, libretto munita of course ... next time I will try Amarone munita, maybe it's the good time I understand what they say without having to read it. Jokes aside, the focus this year was on the 2017 vintage in terms of previews.

In addition, a new spotlight was shone on a topic that may seem trivial but is of interest to just about everyone, experienced Amarone drinkers and first-time novices alike. I am referring to the answer to the question: what do I pair it with? Amarone della Valpolicella carries the burden of being a red, full-bodied and alcoholic wine. Consequently an inevitable partner at the table of boiled meats, stews and aged cheeses. But with a wine of such power and child of rare tradition can one really not go beyond the old pattern? Thus was born a tasting and food and wine pairing itinerary celebrating the versatility of this wine and the people who appreciate it so much.

Chef Portinari of La Peca, a two-star Michelin restaurant in Vicenza, Italy, proposed four dishes inspired by four different cultures paired with four Amarone wines of slightly different styles. Thus Scandinavia was honored with a roasted scallop, shellfish juice, fermented asparagus, and marinated venison carpaccio. Asia, with a roasted eel, watermelon, angostura and bay leaf. Germany with bretzel dumplings, cabbage, horseradish, mustard and caraway, with a concentration of roasted shin. And finally North America with a Cherry Cheek Pie, beef stew with barbecue sauce and cherries. 

Successful experiment? As long as the starred chef is around, yes, I will let you know what I come up with "from my kitchen." There is no shortage of desire to experiment, perhaps even with vegetarian or vegan suggestions.
NB: Fundamental ally is the correct serving temperature.

Wine therefore important, son of territory and technique, red, from native grapes, from drying, structured and concentrated, powerful, versatile and international. These are just a few, but perhaps the most representative, adjectives we can use to describe it. In the 2017 vintage it did not fail to be recognized. 

It was a fairly difficult vintage, but in different areas for different reasons. We remember it for the dramatic images from some of the vineyards in Franciacorta where, after proclaiming itself an early vintage, it did not have a rainy winter and quickly warmed up to spring temperatures. It then surprised everyone with a late frost after mid-April. A frost that was fatal to the buds of international and early grape varieties in that area. Not that the Verona area did not suffer from it at all, but we can say that Valpolicella escaped it in a big way. Partly thanks to the typically later native varieties, partly thanks to the pergola that protected the shoots. 

The vintage also proved to be an early one in Valpolicella, with a slightly early harvest and closer phenological phases due to the heat and drought of July and August. Then rains arrived in September to restore some refreshment to plants and vintners. Let's remember, however, that too much rain in the fall and winter can jeopardize the success of the drying process, confirming that Valpolicella writes its own path. It may not be counted among the great vintages, but it will certainly be a memorable one.

The event continued with the usual walk around tasting and battery tasting of the previews in the Gran Guardia. The only element that did not change from previous years and perhaps the one that will have to change for future editions. The experimentation phase has now begun and there is no going back! In this regard I wish my sincerest good luck to Consortium President Cristian Marchesini, who led the whole event with his head held high, to his young, competent and helpful staff, and to the producers all, of course! 

To end with a few numbers. Valpolicella Ripasso still reigns supreme in sales, loved in Italy and abroad, it was indeed a lucky guess. But good news for Valpolicella and Amarone as well. At the close of 2021, quote, unprecedented jump in sales for Valpolicella thanks to a 31 percent spurt in Italian demand and exports up 8 percent. But according to Nomisma Wine Monitor the award for best performance goes to Amarone, with a boom in sales +24%, exports + 16% with a +39% in value in the domestic market.  

The Amarone of the future. 

Above all, it will be sustainable and versatile, a companion to everyday life as well as important moments. The commitment of the producers, and the Consortium with them, will be to maintain the high economic and social value of this wine, protagonist of a territory but also ambassador of Made in Italy in the world. 

Here are some samples, not only of Amarone from this three-day event.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Terre di Leone
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Re Pazzo 2017

92/100 - € 40,00 

40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta appassite. Matura in botti da 25 e 10 hl per 42 mesi. Rubino intenso. Naso con note di spezia nera tostata e un po’ di cannella. L’attacco al palato è dolce, ricorda la cera d’api e un aroma di amarena, gusto lungo. Retro nasale intenso nuovamente di amarena. Dalla beva imbattibile. 

Villa San Carlo
Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2016

92 - € 70,00

60% Corvina, 25% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella, 5% Croatina. Matura per 36 mesi in tonneau. Rubino scarico ai bordi. Al naso note di caffè dolce e liquirizia, ovviamente frutta rossa. Al palato arriva salato, fa salivare con note sapide, balsamiche e di agrume rosso. Gusto equilibrato. Interessante, non lo conoscevo e lo terrò d’occhio.

Ca’ la Bionda
Valpolicella Classico Superiore Casalvegri 2019

91/100 - € 20,00 

70% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella e Molinara. Matura per 18 mesi in botti da 30 hl. Rubino tipico. Speziato al naso con note dolci e cremose. Sottofondo quasi vegetale. Al palato è balsamico con un ricordo di frutta gialla. Fresco e lungo, secco e salato. Conserva una piacevole acidità che lo rende perfetto per la tavola. 

Roccolo Grassi
Recioto della Valpolicella 2017

95/100 - € 40,00 la bottiglia da 0,375

55% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, 10% Croatina. Matura per 18 mesi in barrique (20% nuove). Rosso intenso con sfumature nere. Naso intenso e scuro, cremoso e profondo. Note di fico rosso, dattero, albicocca e note balsamiche. Al palato ancora profondità, dolcezza e acidità in un continuo susseguirsi tra alti e bassi di intensità e freschezza.

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