Italiano
Umami, Alsace
An interesting tasting of Alsace wines paired with Indian, Chinese, Thai and Japanese dishes.
Even if the umami taste as been recognized and accepted by the scientific community, introduced to the palates gourmet a couple of decades ago, experiments in pairing Italian wines with dishes that have this savory taste have never really taken off, at least in a structured way. This is a shame considering the difficulty Italian wines have in penetrating eastern markets.
It is interesting to note that the lists of pairings complied by the various sommelier associations do not have a provision for this fifth taste. Nevertheless, one could go so far as to say that umami is a savory flavor or sensation that is exalted by wines that are very fragrant and/or soft.
It is for this reason that Alsace wines have a prominent role in pairings with Indian, Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisine. And was with this in mind that I had the privilege of supervise a tasting of Alsace wines with a number of dishes inspired by Asian cuisine at the wine bar Wine Not? in Ancona own by the Bernetti family of the Umami Ronchi winery.
The first wine of the lasting was a bubbly, Cremant d’Alsace Brut Extra Meyer-Fonné, which sat on the lees in the bottle for only 12 months. The wine has a distinct fruity character (pear and yellow peach) typical of the grapes used (mostly Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Gris) and it nicely wrapped the sweet tendency and fruity acidity of the “Mazara del Vallo red prawn crudité with lime”.
The next was a “home-smoked salmon tartare and granny smith apple” where the fattiness and fragrance of the salmon literally fused with the Alsace Riesling Reserve Personnelle 2015 Bott Frères creating a perfect pairing.
The “Gong Bao scallops”, in which the umami taste was in perfect balance with the iodine note of the mollusk, paired nicely with an Alsace Pinot Gris Rosenberg 2014 Barmès-Buecher.
But the highlight of the evening was the ability of the Alsace Gewürztraminer Elements 2013 Bott Geyl to literally sanction the deep umami note (exalted by the sweet-and-sour sensation) of the “Roasted pork ribs marinated in honey and ginger”, a dish that no red wine would ever be able to match (including Amarone).
The Alsace Pinot Noir Réserve 2016 Barmès-Buecher, while very good, demonstrated the limitations of Pinot Noir at the table, even if the “Spicy chicken sautéed with vegetables, sesame and cashews”, with its spicy hot note dominating the persistence difficult to tackle for any red.
A totally French and velvety finish with a Tarte Tatin blessed with a superb Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz Vendage Tardive 2010 Bott Geyl which was rich and vibrant as only (or almost) the great Alsace sweet wines can be.
An evening that confirmed the exceptional ability of Alsace white wines to pair with Japanese cuisine. Maybe it is time to look at some Italian wines to find something out of the ordinary and not limit oneself to the aromatic wines of Alto Adige.
Cremant d’Alsace Brut Extra - Meyer-Fonné
Made mostly with Pinot Auxerrois with the addition of some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine matured in large barrels and then sat on the lees in the bottle for 12 months. The color is a medium, straw-yellow, the effervescence abundant and the aroma dominated by fruity notes of Williams pear and yellow peach garnished with a hint of hazelnut custard and sponge cake. The mouthfeel is very voluminous and fruity, with a subtle effervescence that tends to settle in the finish revealing lack of freshness. Despite this, it is textbook in displaying the communicative ad simplified character of a Cremant d’Alsace.
85/100
20 Euros
Alsace Riesling Reserve Personnelle 2015 - Bott Frères
Made from Riesling grapes and matured for 10 months in large barrels. A textbook Alsace Riesling with its greenish, straw-yellow color, its note of iodine that dominates over the scents of lime and nectarine, the slightly bitter mouthfeel and almost warm finish with its insistent note of hydrocarbon. Only slightly evolved for a three-year-old Riesling but really good.
88/100
22 Euros
Alsace Pinot Gris Rosenberg 2014 - Barmès Buecher
Pinot Gris grapes, matured for 12 months in large barrels. A wine in which the terroir – in this case the chalky soil of Rosenberg – clear prevails over the varietal. A pale (at least for the varietal) yet very lively, straw-yellow color and a bouquet that plays on reduction with notes of quince apple and Williams pear that are a tad closed by one of flint. The mouthfeel is almost that of a Riesling, not heavy, with notes of white flowers, making this a Pinot Gris that may not be broad but is remarkably deep.
91/100
25 Euros
Alsace Gewürztraminer Elements 2013 - Bott Geyl
Gewürztraminer grapes pressed late and matured in large barrels. The wine has a very light color considering the varietal, a pale straw-yellow, and the bouquet is not that fragrant, something rare for wines made from this grape, and they only come out in the glass: notes of rose water and yellow flowers on a background of lychees. The mouthfeel is immediately fatty, semi-sweet at the center of the palate with spice notes in the finish. While lacking in a bit in fire there are sparks, something not always true with a Gewürztraminer.
87/100
20 Euros
Alsace Pinot Noir Réserve 2016 - Barmès Buecher
Pinot Noir matured in large barrels for 12 months. The wine has a medium, ruby-garnet color and an aroma that opens with a citrus note (candied clementine) followed by those of red currant, a hint of green tea and a whiff of talcum. The mouthfeel is faintly phenolic with pointed tannins and a fruity finish. This lacks that little something and almost seems like a New Zealand wine. Do not let it age.
86/100
25 Euros
Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz Vendange Tardive 2010 - Bott Geyl
Made from Pinot Gris picked late, the wine has a lively golden color and an amazingly youthful aroma with notes of peaches in syrup, vanilla and yellow flowers and a hint of fresh mushroom. The finish is decidedly umami. A magnificent wine with 30 years ahead of it.
94/100
45 Euros
