The scents of Sauvignon

At a time when everyone is talking about native grape varieties, Sauvignon, which is an "international," continues to be an extremely beloved grape variety especially for its unmistakable aromas.

The origins of the Sauvignon grape variety are most likely in Bordeaux, and more precisely in the Graves area, south of the city. The dry whites of the area are mainly made from that variety, with small additions of Semillon, sometimes matured in small barrels, so much so that over time it has given rise to a very successful type in the world. Also in France, this time in the innermost part of the Loire Valley, other great whites are produced from Sauvignon grapes, particularly in Sancerre and Pouilly sur Loire, very often without the use of wood. 

From there then the cultivation of this particular grape variety spread halfway around the world. In the Austrian region of Styria, in Italy's Northeast, and then in Australia, Chile, California and New Zealand, where in Marlborough it has given rise to very interesting wines. 

All this is because with Sauvignon you can make unmistakable wines with very distinctive aromas, due to substances that form naturally during fermentation and are called thiols. They give rise to aromas of elderberry, sage, tomato leaf, nettle and, in warmer areas, even peach and passion fruit. 

I propose three, all Italian, from three different regions. Let's start with the most northern one. Elena Walch offers it to us from her vineyards of Castel Ringberg, in Caldaro, Alto Adige, and it is a classic Sauvignon from those areas, fragrant and with a rather evident acidity that gives it a delicious freshness and drinkability. 

We proceed south, entering Veneto, and here the Cottini Family, owners of the Monte Zovo winery, offer us one that comes from a vineyard almost on the border with Trentino, near the slopes of Monte Baldo. It is Oltremonte, a Sauvignon with excellent structure but also fragrant and very pleasant. 

We close by reaching Collio Goriziano, in Friuli, and here is the 2016 Riserva of Russiz Superiore, produced from the vineyards of Capriva, right on the border with Slovenia. It is a great Sauvignon, complex and long-lived, composed and enveloping. 

All three are little standouts, should be served at no more than 12 degrees Celsius and paired especially with shellfish and seafood, just as they do in Arcachon, which is not far from Bordeaux.

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Elena Walch
Alto Adige Sauvignon Castel Ringberg 2019

94/100 - € 22

100% Sauvignon. Solo acciaio per cinque mesi sur lie. Giallo verdolino. Molto varietale e tipico, con evidenti sentori di foglia di pomodoro, pesca bianca, sambuco e anice. Sapore molto teso, agile, salino, con una componente di acidità rinfrescante e una buona lunghezza finale.
 

Monte Zovo
Verona Sauvignon Oltremonte 2020

94/100 - € 20

100% Sauvignon. Solo acciaio sui lieviti per 8 mesi. Giallo verdolino intenso e brillante. Molto varietale, con sentori nitidi di bosso, foglia di pomodoro, pesca bianca, mango e frutto della passione. Sapore pieno, salino, teso, corposo ma agile, caldo, avvolgente e di ottima bevibilità.
 

Russiz Superiore
Collio Sauvignon Riserva 2016

96/100 - € 24

100% Sauvignon. Acciaio sui lieviti, il 30% della massa matura in barrique. Giallo paglia verdolino brillante. Molto complesso al naso, dove note classiche e varietali di salvia, ortica e frutta esotica si sposano con sentori lievemente speziati e di mandorla fresca. Sapore caldo e teso, di insospettabile agilità, con corpo composto e di ottimo spessore e splendida persistenza finale. Molto buono.