The Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Here we have our customary review of a new vintage, the product of a harvest for expert winegrowers and wineries that knew how not to waste their good work. We have chosen the wines of 15 relatively unknown producers who have done a fine job.

As we have done every year for a while now, we went to Montalcino towards the end of January for a preview sampling of the latest vintage Brunello that will be presented to the press and trader operators (then later to the public) on February 18 during the Benvenuto Brunello (Welcome Brunello) event. We would like to thank those estate’s that offered their wines and the Consorzio producers’ association for organizing the tasting, first of all its director Giacomo Pondini and then Cecilia Brunelli, who obtained the wines and prepared the blind tasting of some 250 samples of Brunello and Selezione 2013 as well as the Riserva 2012.

As for the tasting itself, we had expected a bit more given the 4-star rating the harvest was given but in the end it was the weather that made the difference, as always. 2013 was a cool and rainy year for much of the season and thus the work done in the vineyard was fundamental.  Due to the delay in ripening accumulated throughout the growing season, the more late-ripening areas in the north and the cooler eastern and western sides of the district did not fully benefit from the window of good, almost spring-like weather between September 24 and October 4. After that it began to rain again until October 12 in much of the area. The southern zones were more fortunate, both in the east and west. Years when the grapes ripen slowly are always positive above all in regard to the freshness of aroma. The spring and summer rains were beneficial for those who were able to intervene in the vineyard to avoid diseases caused by the humidity. In other words, it was a year for expert winegrowers and for wineries that knew how not to waste their good work. The range in quality between the various products was quite broad, much more than in 2012, and confirmed what we stated above.

In short, I would define this as a classic year, with aromas that were rarely fruity and dominated more by notes of autumn underbrush along with some nuances of green that please the so-called ‘conservatives’ who love sensations of medicinal herbs, tobacco and leather. But when your nose finds a Vecchie Vite from Siro Pacenti or Tenuta Nuova of Casanova di Neri then it’s time for a standing ovation.

For once, we have decided to bypass the usual stars of the appellation (which this year were again very good) in order to draw attention to 15 up-and-coming producers present at the tasting, which may be lesser-known but deserve attention. Here they are in alphabetical order:

Agostina Pieri

Brunello di Montalcino 2013  (fine)

Bosco di Grazia

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (intense)

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012 (unmissable)

Carpineto

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (fresh)

Collelceto

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (flavorful)

Corte dei Venti

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (aristocratic)

Fossacolle

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (elegant)

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012 (wrapping)

Mocali

Brunello di Montalcino Vigna delle Raunate 2013 (rounded)

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012 (traditional)

Padelletti

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (floral)

Querce Bettina

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (vertical)

Rodolfo Cosimi

Brunello di Montalcino Bionasega 2013 (juicy)

Brunello di Montalcino Terra Rossa 2013 (rich)

San Lorenzo

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (fruity)

Solaria

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 ("sweet")

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012 (sunny)

Tenuta Buontempo

Brunello di Montalcino P56 2013 (deep)

Villa I Cipressi

Brunello di Montalcino Zebras 2013 (fruity)

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (modern)

Villa Le Prata

Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (steady)