Italiano
Sicily, the new frontier
The latest edition of Sicilia en Primeur demonstrated yet again how Sicily continues to be a region on the upswing with its wines constantly improving in quality and maintaining a very favorable quality/price ratio.
Sicilia en Primeur has always been a wonderful event. One can experience the island thanks to the tours they organize and then get a clear overall picture thanks to the possibility of tasting over 400 wines during the final days of the event.
The 2022 edition, staged in the magnificent town of Erice, did not disappoint. It was held at the E. Majorana Scientific Culture Center which for the occasion was “downgraded” to be a venue for the tastings and to host “simple minds” compared to Nobel laureates and alike, taking part in institutional meetings between the beauty of the Dirac Equation and the most beautiful terrace overlooking the sea.
Five days of tastings left many positive impressions and confirmed that Sicily continues to be a region firmly on the upswing, with wines that are constantly improving in quality while maintaining a very favorable quality/price ratio. In other words, it is an Eden for wine lovers and those who do not only follow the well-beaten path.
One of the things that stood out was the effect new technical ideas have on the more classic wines, allowing for new and winning interpretations that greatly enhanced the value of production areas. This makes it possible to comprehend a soul that is much more than an organoleptic perception, one which is often still tainted by a concept of Sicily that, thankfully, no longer exists. The four Sicilian wines revolutions over the past 30 years have by now consolidated into a beautiful reality reaching an incredible level of quality thanks to a clear winegrowing zoning that is nothing more than the one adopted generations ago but which has never been better applied.
The tour I made of the deep Sicilian south confirmed that Frappato is a wonderful varietal, one very sensitive to the soil where it is cultivated, lithe and very fragrant where there is sand, more austere and denser where the soil has more loose and old chalk. My tour also confirmed the great potential of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG appellation, which has only been held back by production norms that are too centered on Nero d’Avola as opposed to Frappato. In my view, a revision of production norms that would allow a percentage of Frappato of up to 70% would greatly enhance the value of the appellation. In the same area, above all at higher altitudes, we found excellent results for both Nero d’Avola and Syrah, the latter a varietal that is proving to be very versatile throughout Sicily.
Another truly intriguing area is western Sicily where the Monreale DOC appellation and the Belice Valley, which are often confused, are producing very interesting wines of the highest quality using the Catarratto and Grillo grapes, not to mention the aforementioned Syrah and Perricone, which I am not a big fan of. There have also been some interesting results using established non-native varietals, those cultivated before the Sicilian revolution, which have achieved an incredible productive maturity and differentiate themselves from the globally known style made popular in Australia and lower California. Cases in point include the Chardonnay from Tasca and Planeta (including the upgrade of Didacus) or the Cabernet San Francesco again from Tasca or the Mille e una Notte from Donnafugata.
Horus
Vittoria Frappato Di Sicilia Sole e Terra 2020
92/100 - € 12
100% Frappato matured on the lees in stainless steel. A bright Cerasuolo cherry red and a broad and intriguing bouquet of red flowers, pepper and raspberry. The broad mouthfeel is relaxed, very progressive and elegant with an agile and very persistent finish.
Valle dell’Acate
Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico Iri da Iri 2014
94/100 - € 55
A blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. Matured for 36 months in large and medium-sized barrels. A classic ruby color and intense aromas of red fruit, black cherry, blackberry and prunes with balsamic hints and those of Mediterranean underbrush. The thick mouthfeel has tamed tannins and an excellent juicy and sunny progression that ushers in an intense, persistent and wrapping finish.
Zisola
Sicilia Noto Rosso Doppiozeta 2018
95/100 - € 32
100% Nero d’Avola matured in barrels 50% of which are new wood. A compact ruby color and an intense bouquet of blood orange, underbrush, mulberry and a dark floral hint. The mouthfeel is elegant and saline with very controlled tannins and a broad, harmonious and relaxed progression that is in no way muscular. The finish is juicy, balanced and very persistent. Great elegance.
Vinding Montecarrubo
Terre Siciliane Syrah Cuvée Suzanne 2019
96/100 - € 50
100% Syrah matured for 24 months in barriques. A classic ruby color and an intense and broad aroma of red fruit, cherry, citrus and a smoky hint of great class and some lovely spice. An elegant, flavorful and balanced mouthfeel with excellent tannins and an incredible freshness. The enthusiastic progression is never muscular and the finish has rare grace and persistence.
Alessandro di Camporeale
Sicilia Syrah M NR L Vigna di Mandranova 2018
96/100 - € 35
100% Syrah matured 14 months in wood. An intense ruby color and a clear, youthful bouquet of red and dark fruit, slightly smoky notes with a balsamic streak and one of spice. The mouthfeel is thick and elegant with well-defined tannins and a flavorful and balanced progression. The excellent finish is persistent and distinct.
Feudo Disisa
Monreale Catarratto Lu Bancu 2021
96/100 - € 15
100% Catarratto. Matured on the lees for several months in stainless steel. A pale, straw-yellow color with green reflections. A broad aroma with notes of mallow, citrus, white flowers and sandalwood. The mouthfeel is lively and agile with a great saline and vertical progression. The finish is broad, intense and persistent with notes of Mediterranean brush.
