Different wines

by Daniele Cernilli 08/12/22
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Foto Scattidigusto

Choose a wine to drink at Ferragosto from the three suggested: these are distinctive wines, all three whites, produced in an extremely sustainable way although with different techniques. They come from Lombardy, Tuscany and Sicily, different grapes, similar philosophies.

Some call them "unconventional," and they are those wines that are part of a kind of parallel universe, made by producers who are very respectful of eco-sustainability and practice little or no invasive winemaking. Some of them are representatives of the galaxy of so-called "natural wines," which, however, as yet have no legal regulation, others from the world of biodynamics, and still others from organic winemaking understood in a very strict sense. I point out three, which come from three very different wine areas. All three are whites, produced in an extremely sustainable way by three wineries that are in some ways emblematic. 

The first comes from Franciacorta, is called Sfurnat and is produced by 1701 Franciacorta in Cazzago San Martino, a winery that embraces biodynamic principles. It is a surprising wine, from Chardonnay grapes but very different from many people's idea of whites made from that varietal. Taste it and you will be really surprised, as yours truly was. 

The second is a white, or rather, a yellow, from Tuscany, Montespertoli. Guido Gualandi makes it with Malvasia Lunga del Chianti and with really traditional techniques, so much so that it really looks like something out of a 1950s photo, at the very least. He says he is even inspired by the oenological principles of Pliny the Elder, and tasting his 2018 Vinum Bianco the thing does not seem so strange. 

The third is a Sicilian orange. It is called Krimiso and is made by Aldo Viola of Cantina Rallo in Marsala from Catarratto grapes that he macerates for five months in terracotta amphorae. A spectacle, one of the best wines tasted in its type and closes a truly original trilogy that I hope will open up a new horizon for you in the world of wines and especially in the sign of the times, since environmental sustainability is no longer just an option but a total requirement.

1701 Franciacorta
Sebino Bianco Surnat 2020

91/100 - € 16

100% Chardonnay. Six months in earthenware amphora. Opalescent greenish yellow. Notes of wet chalk, exotic fruit, alfalfa. Dull and taut in the mouth, saline, composed, warm, agile and with excellent persistence.


Guido Gualandi
Toscana Bianco Vinum 2018

90/100 - € 14,50

Malvasia lunga del Chianti and Trebbiano Coda di Cavallo. Deep golden yellow. Aromatic and enveloping nose, with floral notes, then flint and hints of combustion. Saline flavor, irresistible drinkability, very traditional and "authentic."


Aldo Viola - Cantine Rallo
Terre Siciliane Catarratto Krimiso 2018

92/100 - € 21

100% Catarratto macerated for five months in steel tanks. Light amber color. Very complex aromas, with hints of beeswax, dried flowers, wet earth. Saline flavor, excellent body, with a pleasant astringency that appears at the beginning of the tasting on the tip of the tongue. Finish of good persistence.





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