Bianchello del Metauro: Almost a rediscovery

An in-depth examination of Bianchello del Metauro and its prospects

During the International Brodetto and Zuppa di Pesce Festival (we talked about it here)I had the opportunity to get to know Bianchello d’Autore (Auteur), a joint project between some producers of the white wine typical to the hills behind Fano,Bianchello del Metauro, and to taste a bottle from each producer. More important, I had the possibility of having an informal conversation on the situation in the appellation, getting to know the various winemaking styles and verifying them.

This made me want to know more about this wine and I suggested returning to Fano to sample the last vintage available of Bianchello from each producer (and not just the d’Autore) and of every version: basic, Superiore, Passito and sparkling. I proposed doing this through a blind tasting together with the producers taking part in order to come to an analytical consensus. And so for two days we sat around a table commenting on each bottle and only at the end did we learn who produced each wine.

It was an educational experience for me to be able quiz producers on everything that had to do with Bianchello, the harvests, the various versions, the state of the market, the wine’s image and future prospects.  We did this all together during a technical analysis of each, unlabeled bottle.

At first the atmosphere was a bit tense but the producers quickly understood my desire for a dialogue and to let them talk. And the dialogue took place with a glass under our noses, saying anything that came to mind, a kind ofbrainstorming with the understanding that each observation would remain between us. I would then write whatever I wanted on the wines that interested me the most. The result was a resounding success and the producers are now thinking of making this an annual event for collective growth and to engage all producers in the appellation. This time there were some 60% of them.

Before going further, it is best to know something more about Bianchello del Metauro DOC. It is a small appellation that next year will turn 50 and it is situated in the Fano hinterland, where the Bianchello grape is also called Biancame or Trebbiano Toscano, an area well-suited for the varietal. Regulations governing the wine’s DOC production allows for the addition of up to 5% of Malvasia Bianca Lunga although all the producers agreed that today it is almost 100% Bianchello. The grape can be very productive and can easily produce 14 metric tons per hector but a more selective cultivation lowers this to nine MT. Bianchello del Metauro DOC can also be made as a Superiore, a Passito dessert wine and Spumante sparkling wine.

As you know, I like talking about wine and food beginning with my own memories. And Bianchello del Metauro is one of my oldest memories because decades ago it was “the” wine in Fano. The wine’s popularity then slowly declined before turning around and coming back up. I like the way it is easy (which does not mean simple), drinkable, limpid, bright and almost colorless. Served cold it pairs perfectly with brodetto, grilled fish and other seafood typical to this part of the Adriatic.

Over the years, as producers become more aware, a desire arose to come out with a more important Bianchello which led to making a Superiore and the by now well-known sparkling wine and sweet Passito version. I must admit that I always yearn for the Bianchello of my youth, the “base” or stock wine and so this trend towards a wine with more body, alcohol and color, as well as the use of wood, does not totally convince me. But it is right that producers do what they think best, regulations allow this and I will just have to accept it.

Nevertheless, allow me to express some observations on using wood to mature Bianchello. As you well know, we at DoctorWine often wage a non-secular battle against the new, all-Italian credo of no barriques. We do this because we are convinced that barriques, if chosen well and is used correctly, can offer an important contribution. However, Bianchello is very sensitive to wood and can be even heavily influenced by it. Thus my advice to producers is, if they want to use wood, to use it in a light, reserved way to give the wine a soft touch, almost unnoticeable, one which does not upset this wine’s historic characteristics.

There are also some other observations I hope are important. In my mind, at least the base Bianchello should have an identifying bottle used by all producers. I would even go so far as to suggest that it have a screw-on top. If the procedure to eliminate the allowance of 5% Malvasia is too long and complicated, then leave it but urge producers to use only Bianchello even for the Passito and sparkling versions. As for the wines produced as experiments, which are more or less philosophical, before introducing them to the market as DOC Bianchello, producers should make sure it contributes to the growth and identity of the entire appellation, or otherwise use a more generic denomination.

In conclusion an overall opinion: the increase in quality in recent years has undoubtedly given the wine a push forward, thanks also to some young producers. Bianchello now has to rid itself of the image that it is just the younger brother of Verdicchio and establish itself as a different wine in its own right. A wine that is easy to drink and has a lower alcohol content. And this in order to be viewed as an extremely modern wine, also in regard to its price which is still very low.

These are my point-ratings for the different versions while the best wines have an organoleptic review.

Bianchello del Metauro Doc

- Bianchello del Metauro Crespaia Bianco 2017 Crespaia - 90/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Gazza 2017 Di Sante - 89/100
- Bianchello del Metauro San Cesareo  2017 Claudio Morelli  - 89/100
- Bianchello del Metauro La Ripe 2017 Lucarelli - 87/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Albaspino 2017 Fattoria Villaligi - 85/100

Bianchello del Metauro Doc Superiore

- Bianchello del Metauro Superiore Andy 2016 Fiorini - 90/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Superiore Chiaraluce 2016 Crespaia - 89/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Superiore San Leone 2017 Cignano - 88/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Superiore Piandeifiori 2017 Mariotti Cesare - 85/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Superiore Campodarchi Argento 2015 Terra Cruda - 84/100

Bianchello del Metauro Doc Passito

- Bianchello del Metauro Passito Auro 2015 Mariotti Cesare - 87/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Passito Monsavium 2010 Fiorini - 84/100

Bianchello del Metauro Doc Spumante

- Bianchello del Metauro Brut Pas Dosé Metodo Classico Morell 2012 Claudio Morelli - 87/100
- Bianchello del Metauro Brut Metodo Classico 2014 Terra Cruda - 86/100

Organoleptic review:

Bianchello del Metauro Crespaia Bianco 2017 Crespaia

Made from 100%, organic-certified, destemmed Bianchello grapes fermented in stainless steel and matured for several months in stainless steel. The color is a very classic and pale straw-yellow color with a varied and distinct aromas of white flowers and ripe fruit with balsamic nuances. The mouthfeel is wonderfully Mediterranean with nice texture and body, very fresh with an excellent persistence. Finally, a Bianchello with a screw-on top!

Bottles produced: 13,300.

90/100

7,50 euro Q/P

Bianchello del Metauro Gazza 2017 Di Sante

Organic Bianchello grapes that have not been destemmed and are fermented off the skins under controlled temperatures for 15 days and matured on the lees. The wine has a typical, straw-yellow color and a lovely aroma of ripe, white fruit and fresh flowers. The pleasing mouthfeel has a nice complexity and persistence that entices sip after sip. A solemnly commendable price.

Bottles produced: 23,000.

89/100

5,50 euro Q/P

Bianchello del Metauro San Cesareo  2017 Claudio Morelli

Only Bianchello grapes, reduction vinification, protected from oxidation for 15-20 days and cold maceration on the skins for up to 12 hours to then mature for several months in stainless steel vats. This estate epitomizes Bianchello and this is evident by the wine’s typical, straw-yellow color and bright green hues. The aroma is very fresh and green with notes of ripe, white fruit. The fine and delicate mouthfeel has a good persistence and is very pleasing. Top drink in generous sips.

Bottles produced: 30,000.

89/100

9,00 euro Q/P

Bianchello del Metauro Superiore Andy 2016 Fiorini

100% certified organic Bianchello grapes that have not been destemmed and are brought to a very low temperature and then fermented in cement vats and new Allier barrels and protected from oxidation. The wine then matures on the lees for some months in cement vats and barrels. The color is a very classic straw-yellow with green reflections and the very interesting aroma is not typical with its intriguing notes of wisteria and orange blossom. The pronounced mouthfeel is rich and Mediterranean, upheld by an excellent freshness making it a compulsive drop. A very honest price.

Bottles produced: 5,000.

90/100

12,00 euro Q/P

Bianchello del Metauro Superiore Chiaraluce 2016 Crespaia

100% certified, destemmed Bianchello grapes fermented under controlled temperatures and matured on the lees for nine months in stainless steel vats. A very classic and pale, straw-yellow color with green reflections and a bold, matures and assorted aroma with notes of white flowers and ripe fruit. The very pleasing mouthfeel is fresh and inviting, nicely complex and mature. The bottle has a screw-on cap.

Bottles produced: 13,300.

89/100

10,00 euro Q/P

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