A report on Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne 2018: the white wines

by Dario Cappelloni 04/05/18
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le grand jours de bourgogne dario cappelloni doctorwine

After looking at the reds last week, today we focus on the white wines tasted at the most important event dedicated to Burgundy wines: Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne.

During the Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne 2018 event we were able to taste a good number of 2016 whites (many and all very good) as well as those of 2015 (less and not as good).

Vintage 2016 is distinguished by great overall and uniform quality throughout Burgundy, from Chablis to Maconnes. The whites are concentrated yet salty, have great dynamism and are juicy with a definite “classic” character. They are also wines destined to have a very long life.

The same cannot be said for the 2015 wines. The product of a decidedly hot growing season, these wines show their sunny, Mediterranean personality but lack some tension. There are, of course, some notable exceptions but not enough to substantially change the overall impression of the vintage.

97/100

Ramonet Jean Claude Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2014: an explosion of aromatic herbs usher in a sumptuous bouquet. The mouthfeel is at the same time both creamy and very fine, bold and dynamic with a literally endless finish.

Etienne-Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 2016: explosive scents of aromatic herbs and spice, a bold yet very elegant and balanced mouthfeel that is fresh, dynamic and juicy with an unstoppable and persuasive progression. Pure charm.


96/100

Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2016: austere as it always is when young, this 2016 already has a great finesse and complexity that is amazingly multifaceted. The mouthfeel is boldness and elegance in pure form. Very long and great.

Comtes Lafon Meursault Charmes 1er Cru 2015: when the going gets tough, the tough get going. A badly used quote but one that fits the occasion. In a year that was anything but extraordinary for the white Burgundies, Dominique Lafon came out with this Charmes that has surprising finesse and freshness. The mouthfeel is challenging and bold with great dynamism and a firm, unending finish.

Etienne-Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2016: for several years now this historic estate has returned to its former glory. This wine is able to bring together boldness and finesse is a solid framework of crystalline purity. A wine of infinite beauty.


95/100

Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Château-Fuissé Le Clos 2016: an impeccable and great example of tradition. The austere bouquet has penetrating chalky aromas, the bold mouthfeel is sharp and complex with a saline and peppery finish.

Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants 2015: this white is made with Aligoté grapes from a centuries old vineyard that never lets you down. The nose is a turbine of spice, tobacco and aromatic that are the wine’s calling card. The structure is full, mature and juicy but its punch is that of a pure champion. The finish is long and fascinating.


93/100

Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2016: the bouquet has fine scents of aromatic herbs and floral notes. The mouthfeel is creamy and fresh and has great tension, while the progression is insistent and the finish savory and very long.

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de La Crochette 2016: a white that plays its hand on notes of implacable finesse. Salt, iodine and a galore of the sea with a very long finish.

La Soufrandise Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Marie 2016: the nose is slightly smoky on a floral and iodine background. The mouthfeel is meaty, flavorful and nicely delineated with a salty and deep finish.

Antoine Jobard Meursault Les Tillets 2015: despite the hot year that compromised many wines, Antoine’s skilled hand resolved any and all problems with apparent ease. The aroma is mature yet at the same time has impeccable freshness and dynamism.

Tessier Meursault 1er Cru Le Porusot Dessus 2016: wrapping aromas of flint and spice, a creamy yet saline and darting mouthfeel and a fresh and dynamic finish.

Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2016: an elegant bouquet with iodine and brackish aromas. The mouthfeel is very fine, apparently subtle yet deep and sharp with great progression.

De Villaine Bouzeron Blanc 2016: an intense aroma with crystalline notes of spice and citrus. The bold and fresh mouthfeel has grit and personality to burn with a saline and juicy finish of great purity.

Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Blagny 2016: despite its youth, this wine is already complex with its notes of ripe fruit and spice. The mouthfeel is a sword, juicy and dynamic with great balance and a salty and long finish.


92/100

P. et M. Jacqueson Rully 1er Cru La Pucelle 2016: this is a wine that will never let you down. Although still very young, its bouquet expresses its defining elegance composed of aromatic herbs and delicate spice. The mouthfeel is fresh and sharp, long and saline.

Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Grain 2016: the aroma has distinct marine and floral nuances, the mouthfeel is bold, salty and, at the same time, fresh and agile with a juicy and sharp finish.

Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 2016: a simple village classification but a gutsy wine with personality. The mouthfeel is pulpy and nervous with an amazing progression and delicately citrusy and long finish.

Romain Bouchard- Domaine de L’Enclos Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 2016: an elegant, mature nose with notes of fruit and spice. The mouthfeel is full, creamy yet agile and salty with a long and flavorful finish.


91/100

Gérard Duplessis Chablis 2016: a simple Chablis that is austere and concentrated on iodine and chalky notes along with an ambitious structure and personality. The mouthfeel is bold and taut with great dynamism and a long and decidedly marine finish.





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