The new winery of Pieropan

by Sissi Baratella 04/07/22
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Pieropan Nuova Cantina

Dedicated to Leonildo Pieropan, the new winery's center contributes to enhance the territory by giving it even more charm, in memory of a person who saw the territory grow and establish itself and who contributed to make it famous in the world.

The curtain is raised on the new headquarter of Pieropan, the winery which left its mark in the world with its Soave wines, now in its fourth generation. The new structure is just outside the historical walls of Soave, designed by Moreno Zurlo of Acme Studio, it is the result of the architect's genius mixed to the practical and far-sighted instinct of Leonildo Pieropan, to whom the winery has been dedicated. Worthy of this dedication are his sons Dario, today responsible for the winery, and Andrea, responsible for the countryside, and his wife Teresita who today carry on the work set since the 1970s by Leonildo. A man who, before leaving us prematurely, was an avant-garde enologist, an unconventional soavist, whose efforts have been repaid in time thanks to perseverance and an innate patience. Fate wanted him not to see his new creature in action, however it is as if he was there everywhere. 

Over the years swimming against the current must have been tiring, in fact it requires more energy and concentration than going with the flow. The positive side is that it helps to strengthen one's convictions. This is what happened when in 2011 the winery decided that the ideal corking system for Soave classico was the screw cap. No compromises were made, or else the word "classic" would be lost on the label, until in 2015 the screw cap was made official by the disciplinary. 

A similar story is that of Soave Classico La Rocca, whose first vintage was '78, but it was too early for a Soave rested in wood... this time the price to pay was fifteen years of absence on the Italian market only to reappear as one of the best Italian wine products ever. The 2020, surprisingly good, and the 2012, witness of longevity, confirm this.

Also in the 1970s, shortly before La Rocca, Calvarino was born, Soave classico da unità geografica. Calvarino does not use steel and is made and matured in cement in tanks with a fascinating shape and "perpetual motion". In this case as well, putting cement before the revolutionary and practical steel? Crazy stuff. 

And yet, the winery currently produces about 650,000 bottles per year, including whites (the majority and in the unmistakable Rhine bottle) and reds. Of which almost half a million are Soave Classico, between screw cap and conventional closure. About 40 thousand of La Rocca and 60 thousand of Calvarino. The rest is divided between Ruberpan Valpolicella Superiore and Amarone della Valpolicella Vigna Garzon. Not to be forgotten is the Recioto di Soave classico Le Colombare of which are produced between 10 and 12 thousand bottles (0.5 l) per year and 80 magnums... this last information I find particularly fascinating. 

Pieropan's wines, apart from Recioto, are certified organic. The doses of added sulfur are very low, this is possible thanks to the use of nitrogen from the very first phases of the processing of grapes in the winery. The low quantity of sulfur dioxide also reinforces another of the basic principles which characterize these wines, the preparation for bottling includes mild interventions in order to promote the integrity of the wine and its higher readiness to drink once it is released on the market. It goes without saying that in case sulfur dioxide would be too high, as well as in case filtration would be too strong, they would compromise the easiness of drinking. 

The new winery emerges from the underground, mostly underground with a visual impact limited to the "wow effect" of the front facade. The materials are all local and if not at km 0 their place of origin is easily accessible. Textural in appearance and form, functional in conception, it masterfully divides the work areas that are all autonomous and independent. In addition to the bottling, receiving and pressing of grapes, and "basic" vinification areas, the most fascinating places are undoubtedly the Calvarino room, where the cement tanks are located, and the wood room where La Rocca shares some of its space with the reds. The entire surface of the roof is grassed over and currently there dwells one hectare of vineyard from resistant clones of pinot bianco. Currently not yet in production, we will find out in the next years if it will be destined to give life to a new label. What is certain for the moment is that pinot bianco is one of the complementary grapes allowed by Soave's disciplinary, so at worst nothing will be wasted. This is sustainability as well. 

The new winery will also be able to host events, tastings and meetings in the proper rooms. The new winery of this family contributes to enhance the territory by giving it even more charm, while respecting traditions and the memory of a person who was among those who saw the territory grow and establish itself and who contributed to make it famous in the world. There is still something new boiling in the pot, we just have to update soon! 

Pieropan
Soave Classico La Rocca 2020

95/100 - € 26,00

100% Garganega. Matura in legno per circa 15 mesi sûr lie. Giallo oro. Al naso arrivano subito le note tostate, ancora giovani che donano una piacevole polverosità al naso. Poi note agrumate e fiori bianchi. Al palato entra cremoso, stupisce con un retro nasale balsamico che ricorda il pino mugo, la resina. Il sorso è piacevole nella sua complessità e lungo. 

Pieropan
Amarone della Valpolicella Vigna Garzon 2016

93/100 - € 50,00

60% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 10% Croatina, 10% Rondinella. Matura per l’80% in tonneau e 20% barrique per 30 mesi. Rubino intenso con riflessi freschi viola. Al naso arrivano spezie nere e note di infuso di frutti rossi. Piacevolmente tannico al palato alterna sensazioni dolci e salate, ampio e balsamico. Chiude con persistenti sfumature di cioccolato fondente. 

Pieropan
Recioto di Soave Classico Le Colombare 2017

93/100 - € 27,00 la bottiglia da 0,500 l 

100% Garganega. Matura in legno da 25 hl per circa 24 mesi. Oro intenso dai riflessi ambrati. Al naso rapidi arrivano profumi di albicocca, fico, noce. Sorprendente nella freschezza al palato e agilità di beva. Rimane un gradevole sentore di fiori secchi, la persistenza è appagante. 

Related Products

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09/04/14 Redazione Nino and Teresita Pieropan are modern wine artisans. For the most part they produce Soave Classico, a stock version and the vineyard cru Calvarino and La Rocca. They are delicious white wines that...
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