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The challenge of Télos Bianco

by Sissi Baratella 03/29/22
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Famiglia Castagnedi - Tenuta Sant'Antonio

Tasting of Tenuta Sant'Antonio's Télos Bianco from both the current vintage, 2020, and 2017. With a little experiment...

The Castagnedi family closed out 2021 with +23% and an eye fixed on the future towards sustainability. Tenuta Sant'Antonio is a company in continuous expansion, as long as it is sustainable growth. A theme that is truly dear to all of us; from producers to communicators, from consumers to retailers. Sustainability really touches everyone and interests us (or should interest us) deeply. 

When we talk about sustainability, in fact, we are dealing with a 360° theme that goes beyond the concepts of organic and biodynamic, beyond the concept of natural. Sustainable in fact involves everything, past, present and future. It is the most current and futuristic concept we can imagine at the same time and, fortunately, for more and more productive activities it is a reality or will soon become one. 

A clear example is Tenuta Sant'Antonio, a Veronese winery which produces DOC wines between the two appellations Valpolicella, eastern area, and Soave. Never stopped in the field of experimentation, today it reaches 1.8 million bottles produced. To drive the name and the sales are: Amarone della Valpolicella, and this was a bit expected, and the Télos line, from sustainable viticulture, vegan and without added sulfites.

At Télos I had already been surprised a few years ago with the Amarone, which believe me is not exactly a wine you would expect to find without added sulfites. But this time what attracted my curiosity, thanks to Tiziano Castagnedi, one of the brothers at the helm of the estate, was Télos Bianco in the current 2020 vintage and agée 2017, from Garganega and Chardonnay. To understand how a 2017 white wine with no added sulfites succeeds in breaking through you have to, of course, start in the vineyard where we have already mentioned sustainability and vegan grape production, but what really in my opinion makes the difference happens in the winery starting with the delivery of the grapes. It's called a ginning machine and the name says it all. A machine that by vibrating separates the berries from the stalks, makes them fall into a collection hopper and then conveys them, in an atmosphere protected by inert gas and cold, to the press. 
 
This technology, friend of sustainability, allows to quickly process large quantities of grapes, to leave the berries practically intact (therefore avoiding the oxidation of must) as well as allowing maceration in an atmosphere protected by oxygen. From its first moments in the cellar, grapes are protected from oxidation and from excessive mechanical activities. Guaranteeing not only the integrity of berries but, as a consequence, the integrity of aromas. 
 
Upon Tiziano's provocation, after having tasted it together, I take away a bottle of Télos Bianco 2017 and no, I do not party with it, but I turn it into a real experiment, actually into a challenge... the 7daysTélosChallenge. For 7 consecutive days I taste wine and tell you how a white wine without added sulfites changes. (Why 7? because "a glass of wine a day", or maybe it was an apple...)
 
Day #1: Télos Bianco is just as I remembered it. An explosion of aromas. Removed the one-piece natural cork (I know you were wondering), I pour it into the glass, it is deep golden yellow and bright, there is no trace of oxidation. The nose is tropical, papaya, mango, passion fruit. Then dried apricot. One endless sweetness after another and of great impact. The palate is extraordinarily salty. A continuous and dynamic up and down between sweet and salty. Very drinkable, full-bodied and persistent. I would drink more, but I'll stop myself if not on the seventh day who will get there?
 
Day n° 2: In the glass it is always golden. It has changed, the nose smells of lychees, clear and intense scent of lychees. In the mouth, salt and freshness return but finally here it is: I recognize the almond typical of Garganega! It makes my palate water just talking about it is so salty. 
 
Day No. 3: You begin to see a veil of oxidation both to the eye and to the nose. Yet the lychee is always there, overripe, and along with it emerges a textural, almost tannic side. It is a bit reminiscent of the dustiness of almonds with skin. This is still the Garganega. In the mouth it booms, the fruit returns and explodes in the center of the palate. The overripe fruit begins to oxidize, but it is still a great pleasure to drink it. 
 
Day n° 4: Incredible, it has changed again and is in better shape than yesterday. Nose and mouth match and tastes like ACE juice. Fresh on the palate and creamy, it is pleasantly thirst quenching.
 
Day No. 5: Very open, with a fruit still intact and recognizable, however, begins to present notes of apple, a clear reminder of the advancing oxidation. Still extraordinary strength in the mouth, leaves the palate very salty and clean. 
 
My opinion is that this wine will stay like this for many days to come. After a lifetime in reduction it is enjoying the oxygen. I make assumptions because, mea culpa, I confess...the wine is done! But who can get seven days out of a bottle? This is followed by a tasting of the current vintage. 

Télos Bianco 2020 

92/100 - € 18,00

80% Garganega e 20% Chardonnay. Riposa sulle fecce fini per 6-8 mesi. Senza solfiti aggiunti. Giallo paglierino intenso, riflessi brillanti. Al naso accenni floreali e di erbe aromatiche di campo. Frutta gialla, cremosa che a tratti inizia a essere tropicale. Al palato è fresco, di ottima acidità, molto salato e lungo nella persistenza del sorso. Giovane, ma già piuttosto espressivo e sorprendentemente dissetante. Si consiglia di lasciarlo respirare e, perché no, scaldare un po’ nel calice.

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