Technical analyses of an area

Here we will discuss Romagna but the argument could apply to many other areas and realities in Italy, those where the concept of ‘cru’– in the sense of a special area with particular and recognizable characteristics – is incredibly rejected by the producers themselves. Some other examples include Montalcino and Friuli, where just the idea of creating a DOCG Collio encounters resistance. This attitude is incomprehensibly backward and ultraconservative also because the producers themselves know very well where the grapes grow best or have particular characteristics that should be exalted with a cru-type classification.

This being the situation, it was good to learn of an initiative undertaken by a journalist who has done much to get Romagna recognized as a quality winemaking region, Giorgio Melandri, together with an extremely qualified enologist who has played a leading role in boosting the quality of this region, Francesco Bordini. Together they made an in-depth examination to identify and exalt the differences that existed within a single town, Modigliana, in the province of Forli-Cesena. They focused on three vineyards in the most characteristic areas of the zone and where fermentation and aging takes place in cement vats, chosen because they do not influence the wine, to then be bottled without it having been kept in wood. Maceration is long, over 30 days, and strictly using indigenous yeasts. And this again to ensure that nothing alters the wine, even in a positive manner. Nothing from outside the area could be used.

Modigliana was chosen because Melandri is a great fan of the area that produces wines of great elegance with refined tannins and high acidity and while they can at times be somewhat thin, they definitely have a distinct imprint. Personally, I consider the areas of upper Predappio and Brisighella, above the ravine, to be more complete but they are only different expressions of Romagna where Sangiovese is exalted. The three valleys come together like their streams do into the Marzeno River. The names of the three vineyards are Ibola, Tramazzo and Acerreta and they are also those of the wines they produce. Vintage 2015 was the product of a warm year, which I believe sharpens their differences without any access in alcohol, which can occur in Modigliana. Only 3,000 bottles were produced by Mutiliana, an estate named after the town’s ancient name.

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