Pilandro, from Lugana to Castelli di Jesi on tiptoes

The Lavelli family, specialists in producing Lugana, has doubled their wine production expanding from Lombardy to Castelli di Jesi.

The influx to Castelli di Jesi of winemakers and wine entrepreneurs from northern Italy shows no signs of slowing and the results have always been positive. One need only look at the Milan native Corrado Dottori and his estate Distesa in Cupramontana. In 15 years, he has provoked a media sensation for the area which before him had been ignored by the millennials. Then there is the Pievalta estate in Montecarotto, the Marche branch of Franciacorta producer Barone Pizzini, whose wines are always among the best in the appellation. Ferrara native Stefano Bondanelli and his Vigna degli Estensi estate in Senigallia may be not as well-known as the other two examples but he turns out Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi of the highest quality.

Castelplanio is on the left bank of the Esino River and is an area that produces floral, complete Verdicchio that has a medium body. And it is here that the Lavell family, experts in producing the great wine Lugana, expanded to from Lombardy in order to double their production. For a few years now they have been turning out some very good Verdicchio. And if “very good” may seem a little too vague, all we ca say is that it is not possible to be more precise when dealing with wines that are able to be easily understood and be full of character at the same time, something rare.

The wines do not need to be “sought out” in the glass because they are not bitter, are impeccably made and are perfect expressions of the varietal. Their style may recall that of Stefano Antonucci but with the luminosity of a Poderi Mattioli and the balance of Umani Ronchi.

The wines may seem to be a bit too textbook (but rightfully so) and this probably explains the reason why the most intransigent Verdicchio lovers are not crazy about them. However, at the same time they are an exemplary calling card for the appellation.

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