Italiano
Leonardo’s wines at Fattoria Dianella
A homage to Leonardo was took place at the Fattoria Dianella estate in Vinci to mark the 500th anniversary of his death: a vineyard with “his” grapes and a luncheon with “his” cuisine.
2019 is the year of Leonardo da Vinci with events staged throughout Italy, north to south, as well as, naturally, his home town. Vinci is also home to Fattoria Dianella, the pearl of the Conti Passerin d’Entròves, which to celebrate the great artist have recreated Leonardo’s Vineyard.
The anniversary of his death fell on May 2 and it was on this day that they symbolically inaugurated a new vineyard inside the Dianella estate. The ornamental vineyard was created using scions of Malvasia di Candia vines from the Leonardo’s Vineyard in Milan, which were kindly donated for the first time by the Castellini family, owners of the Casa degli Atellani estate. It is meant to symbolize life, rebirth and the immortality of this genius 500 years after his death.
A magical place, Fattoria Dianella has a villa that sits on the top of a hill surrounded by nature, acacia trees and vineyards, and is engulfed in the aromas of Tuscany. It is a splendid country estate complete with a winery, grounds and accommodations, exquisitely retro and perfectly run by the volcanic Veronica – as she is described by her enologist, Franco Bernabei, who for her would gladly carry out two harvests a year – and her husband Francesco. The estate is 40km from Florence and only a few minutes by car from Empoli. There are 27 hectares of vineyards, for the most part Sangiovese (some 20ha) that grows in a chalky soil that gives great freshness to the wines.
After a symbolic grafting of the shoots, a 16th century meal was offered that was truly interesting.
While it is impossible to know exactly what Leonardo ate, it is probable that it was more or less what we feasted on: a cuisine based on simple ingredients embellished with wild herbs, fruit and flowers.
The meal began with Bread Gnocchi with a Nettle Pesto that was paired with an almost unknown varietal wine, Orpicchio. This is a biotype of Trebbiano that was practically abandoned by farmers because of its low yield, caused by its small bunches and grapes. The estate has a half-hectare of this varietal.
Orpicchio 2016
90/100 - € 30
Made from Oripicchio grapes and fermented in wood. The wine has a straw-yellow color with light-green hues and an aroma of yellow flowers and fruit, with notes of mimosa, gooseberry, aromatic herbs, wild mint and moss. The mouthfeel has structure and a distinct acidic backbone with a nice salinity. The long finish has fruity and mossy notes.
Second course were Grilled Roulades with Wild Herbs and particular attention was paid to the way they were cooked, using a technique that was probably used in Leonardo’s time.
Il Matto delle giuncaie 2015
92/100 - € 35
Made from Sangiovese grapes and matured in barriques for 12-14 months. The wine has a ruby color and a bouquet centered on prunes and blackberry, cinchona, leather, pepper, licorice sticks and tobacco. The elegant mouthfeel has great balance and salinity, with soft and well-integrated tannins and a long aftertaste of sweet fruit and spice sensations.
Dessert was an unusual Fried Millet Pudding with a Coulis Sauce of Wild Strawberry and Rose Petals that was paired with a sweet Malvasia.
Dolci Ricordi Vendemmia Tardiva 2016
89/100 - € 30
Made from late-harvest Malvasia del Chianti grapes.
The wine has an amber color and a bouquet of honey and saffron, lime, apricot and passion fruit, aromatic herbs and humus. The mouthfeel has a nice balance and an acidic backbone that make it dynamic and pleasing.
