Cabreo Mytho, a wine against the tide

Folonari's newest addition is presented: a pure Sangiovese, Igt Toscana, from the vineyards of Montefioralle, in Greve in Chianti.

It was March, the windy day not spring; a "promise of rain" hovered as we approached Montefioralle, a wonderful Chianti hamlet. The destination was Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari Tenute's Cabreo Estate for the debut of a new wine shrouded in mystery. Appointment at the charming Relais Pietra del Cabreo, which together with Relais Borgo del Cabreo are the estates' two hospitality properties.

Charming place, rooms extremely well cared for down to the smallest detail, spacious and comfortable common areas, some rooms with their own private garden: an ideal place to relax within the Chianti Classico; to mention the wonderful breakfast in the morning. Small transfer to the Nozzole estate to discover the newest addition. 

It is called Cabreo Mytho, pure Sangiovese from the Zano vineyards of the Cabreo Estate, the vintage is 2019. The surprise? It is not a Grand Selection of Chianti Classico but an Igt Toscana in the ranks of the Flaccianello, Cepparello, Fontalloro born in the 1980s and creators of the Supertuscan phenomenon declined with only Sangiovese. A countercultural choice-untying Sangiovese from the territory-at a time when everyone is looking for cru, with UGAs approved in Chianti Classico and so on.

For us older people, the name Mytho had already been used by the company in 2001 and 2002 for a super selection of Cabreo Il Borgo whose labels were designed by Igor Mitoraj (hence the name). But these are just memories. Today's Mytho is anything but. Owner Giovanni Folonari explained to us that the countercultural choice is dictated by technical issues and to have greater freedom "to move" with respect to the Chianti Classico disciplinary. Consultant winemaker Roberto Potentini told us that some innovative (for the winery) processes were adopted for this wine, such as rachis throttling that brought the harvest to October, crushing with the feet (literally) so that there is never any contact with metal, thus taking the concept of skin integrity to extremes. Then fermentation with fulling directly in tonneaux deprived of a bottom (sic!), maturation however is in classic Allier tonneaux. Bottles are about 4,000 for this first vintage. 

Click on the name of the wine to read its description.

• Tenuta del Cabreo, Toscana Sangiovese Mytho 2019

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