Vini Eleva, when small is good

In Valpolicella, Raffaella Veroli has created extraordinary, surprisingly original wines.

Piovesole is an area in the town of Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella that sits on a hill 300m above sea level (hence the name “Eleva as in elevated) and is surrounded by well-ordered small vineyard parcels that are grassy and divided into 14 terraces upheld by dry stone walls that descend towards the plain. It is almost a garden surrounded by woods and olive groves that nature has guided but never interfered with.

Being quite isolated, the zone has an almost unique ecosystem. The “farm” has been certified organic since 2018 thanks to its relatively uncontaminated environment and Raffaella Veroli and Davide Gaeta’s almost maniacal philosophy of protecting the environment.

It is extraordinarily captivating to hear Raffaella talk about her wines, the care taken in each production phrase. She is the enologist, the technical soul behind production as well as its “naturalist” soul (she holds a degree in natural sciences with a major in bioethics). However, a philosophy is nothing unless it is backed up by great technical competence because “the glass is unforgiving”.

Tasting the estate’s wines goes beyond something pleasurable: all the wines have a soul, a story to tell, and give a pleasure that is never foregone but surprising original. Perhaps it is the essential nature, elegance and sense of balance that these wines transmit that create an immediately empathy with what is in the glass and inspirers a desire to take another sip. All this as opposed to the baroque excess and redundancy of the top wines of the area.

And perhaps it was this sense of surprise that convinced me to write about these wines and to keep an eye in the future on this delicious reality in Valpolicella.

Valpolicella Classico Fralibri 2018

91/100 - € 12

A rich blend of Valpolicella varietals (40% Corvina Veronese, 20% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 15% Croatina, Teroldego, Merlot, Molinara and Oseleta) made in stainless steel. The enticing ruby-red color is clear but not bright. The aromas are intense with distinct notes of red fruit like black cherry and cherry and balsamic whiffs making the bouquet coy and pleasing. The mouthfeel is fresh, overflowing and almost “dangerous” for the way it temps the drinker to exaggerate. An amazingly pleasing drop, a table wine, an everyday wine of disarming simplicity produced in an old-fashioned, linear way.

Valpolicella Classico Ripasso Tenzone 2017

90/100 - € 15

The same blend as the Fralibri (40% Corvina Veronese, 20% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 15% Croatina, Teroldego, Merlot, Molinara and Oseleta) but matured in large barrels for 18 months. A full, ruby color and an aroma in which the initial scents of sour cherry and cherry preserved in alcohol seem light, rounded and winking before breathing makes the bouquet more complex with notes of spice. The mouthfeel is warm and vigorous, with fine tannins uplifting the roundness and significant softness. A surprising finesse that does not betray the solid structure.

Raffaella did not want to make this wine but the market demanded it. Given Raffaella’s expertise, the result and the decisions she made proved her right.

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Piovesole 2015

95/100 - € 50

The same blend as the other estate wines but with the grapes raisinating for 120 days and the wine maturing in large barrels. The red color is lively but not concentrated, more luminous. The aroma is decidedly “horizontal”, complex and varied. The spice notes are predominant but there are precise and classic references to Perigord Grottine, Kirsch or the more classic cherries under spirits. Hints of chocolate make it gourmand as does the alluring spice. The warmth from the alcohol is never violent and the acidity and tannins are in perfect union creating an unusual drinkability. Rarely have I had an Amarone so suited for the table, for meditation or to pair with aged cheeses. It is an extraordinary wine because of how uncommon it is. Although I am a big fan of the great wines from the classic producers, I was impressed by the refined elegance of this sensorial sensation.

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