The native reds of Conte d’Attimis Maniago

After tasting Tazzelenghe and Pignolo d’Attimis Maniago, one can speak of a comeback for native red varietals in Colli Orientali del Friuli.

“Friuli” immediately brings to mind the region’s great white wines. One thinks of the reds only if they are Friuli natives or authentic wine experts. Sad to say, among the causes for a disinterest in these wines is the popularity over the past 15 years of Bordeaux varietals (which have been around since the 19th century) and a reluctance to promote native varietals. This has relegated Friuli reds to unjustly live in the shadows.

And this despite there being some excellent ones. A good Terrano, a Trieste red, will knock you out with the first drop thanks to its “electric” acidity that is unique and never over the top. Fifty years ago, a certain Luigi Veronelli placed the Merlot of Collio and Colli Orientali on an equal standing with Brunello and Barolo.

Here we look at Colli Orientali, the hills in the province of Udine, more precise at the town of Buttrio and Conte Alberto d’Attimis Maniago, a man of uncommon gentility and an important wine producer who makes no secret of his preference for the area’s two great, native red varietals, which were almost wiped out by the phylloxera plague of the early 20th century: Tazzelenghe and Pignolo, which he has continued to cultivate using his own select vine cuttings.

Tazzelenghe in the local dialect translates “tongue cutter”, a reference to the biting acidity of the wine made from it. Only a few hectares remain of this grape that must ripen well and mature in wood.

Pignolo got its name due to its bunch having a form similar to a pinecone (but without any connection with Pinot) and it is perhaps one of the most important native varietals in the region, one which produces wine that has significant structure and tannins. What they have in common is that the great Friuli reds always maintain a lovely freshness on the palate even when they have a bold structure, something that allows them to have an exceptional drinkability.

Friuli Colli Orientali Tazzelenghe 2012

92/100 - € 32

Made from Tazzelenghe grapes that have dried on racks for 30 days. The wine matures in 5hl Slovenian oak barrels and in both new and used barriques for around 30 months. A distinct and lively ruby color with a few garnet reflections all wonderfully maintained. The bouquet is very lovely with scents of cut grass, dew, damp tobacco and cherries wrapped in a smoked note. The mouthfeel is lively and full-bodied with earthy tannins that are not rustic and a flavorful finish with notes of wild berries and graphite. Truly very long. Exquisite.

Bottles produced: 2,630

Friuli Colli Orientali Pignolo 2009

90/100 - € 36

Made from Pignolo grapes that have dried on racks for 40 days. The wine matures in 5hl Slovenian oak barrels and in both new and used barriques for around 30 months. A deep, ruby-garnet color and aromas of black pepper and dark cacao on a background of cherry with herbal hints. While the attack of the mouthfeel is similar to that of Tazzelenghe, the finish is very different, dominated by tannins with extraordinary texture and sweetness. The aftertaste is long, dark and fruity. This should be allowed to age a few more years in the bottle.

Bottles produced: 3,750

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