La Lupinella, the flower of Vinci

by Stefania Vinciguerra 01/29/20
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La Lupinella cantina vini Toscana vigneti

The Bitossi family’s organic wine estate, situated between Vinci and Montespertoli, produces three original and well-made wines: a Bianco (White), Rosato (Rosé) and a Chianti.

The Bitossi family has been known for decades for their artistic ceramic work. Vittoriano, who inherited his father’s business, acquired this lovely estate in Vinci in the mid-1970s. As is often the case, La Lupinella was not acquired with the idea of creating a wine estate but as a family getaway in the country that served to repopulate the fauna, while wine was produced only for family consumption. Then, towards 1990, his children Marco and Cinzia began to produce wine more as a commercial venture. They began by replanting the vineyards, with greater attention paid to the different terroir (the vineyards are in Montespertoili and Sant’Ansano, in the town of Vinci) and to rationalize production.

Today, under the direction of Marco’s wife Manuela Marzi and with the participation of the new generation, the estate has a new impetus for development. There are now a total of some 12 hectares of vineyards that are all cultivated with native varietals like Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo and Trebbiano. The farming method is organic and above all they employ techniques and traditions aimed at preserving local biodiversity, with grass growing between the rows, the use of organic compatible substances and green manure. In regard to green manure, lupinella is a plant in the large family of legumes that grows spontaneously in the area and often between the vines due to the use of green manure.

Their outside enologist-consultant is Luca D’Attorna, well-known for his predilection for organic methods, and winemaking utilizes, at the same time, wood, cement and amphorae, the latter from the famous producer Gusmano & Manetti, depending on an innovative approach and interesting results. Great attention is also paid to image with the lovely labels designed by the American artist Don Carney, who already worked with the family designing ceramic tiles.

The estate produces three wines: a white made from Trebbiano, a Sangiovese-based rosé and a Chianti that is mostly Sangiovese with an addition of Ciliegiolo, the 2017 vintage of which stood out for its personality.

Chianti Docg La Lupinella Rossa 2017 

89/100 - € 10

Made mostly Sangiovese with an addition of Ciliegiolo with one third maturing in cement vats, one third in small barrels and one third in large barrels. The wine has a classic, ruby color and an intense and intriguing aroma that is slightly spice with floral scents of violet and notes of red fruit. The medium mouthfeel is very progressive with polished tannins, a fresh salinity and a juicy and very pleasing finish. A wine to drink.

Bottles produced: 10,000.

La Lupinella Bianca 2018  

88/100 - € 17

Made from Trebbiano grapes in terracotta amphorae and during fermentation some 2% of whole grapes are added that have been selected and cleaned by hand. The wine matures in amphorae for at least six months. A bold, straw color with a non-oxidative aroma that has hints of anise, floral tones and a light scent of peach. The style is balanced and composed. The mouthfeel is interesting and well-structured thanks to an unexpected salinity and texture that is not too heavy. The finish is persistence and consistent with the aroma.

Bottles produced: 3,000.

La Lupinella Rosa 2019 

 87/100 - € 9

Made from Sangiovese with one third of the must fermenting slowly in amphorae for around 20 days, while the rest is made in stainless steel and matures on the lees for almost five months without undergoing malolactic fermentation. A pale, almost face-power pink and an aroma of white peach with a floral hint. The mouthfeel has a nice flavor and is agile and nervous with a slightly almond yet flavorful finish.

Bottles produced: 3,000.

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