Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage masters

For 18 generations, beginning in 1841, the Chave family has shown itself to be authentic masters of Syrah and, in particular, the wine Hermitage.

At the end of the 14th century, the Chave family, originally from Ardeche, settled in an area that is now known as Saint-Joseph. In 1491, they moved to the small town of Lent where a local noble family had given them land in the lieut-dit of Bachasson, for unspecified “services rendered”, where they soon replanted over four hectares of vineyards. For 18 generations, beginning in 1841, the Chave family has shown itself to be authentic masters of Syrah and, in particular the wine Hermitage.

The winery (a new one will be opened shortly) is in Mauves where, among other things, Jean-Louis began to replant the vineyards 15 years ago on a hill in the appellation of Saint-Joseph. The entire domain is composed of some 30 hectares of land of which 11 are in the Hermitage AOC in the vineyards of Bressards, Ermite, Méal, Beaumes and Péléat. Jean-Louis is convinced that it is only through blending the different terroirs (Bessards has a soil composed of granite, Méal clay, Ermite clay and granite and the test clay and limestone) that the wines of this appellation can fully express themselves. “Bessards represents the skeleton of the wine, the grapes from the other areas provide the flesh and the fruit,” he explained. The results are wines that make boldness plus elegance and freshness their calling card. Added to this is a propensity to age very long, for both the reds and whites.

The Hermitage Blanc (some 80% Marsanne and the rest Roussanne) is made from five hectares of parcels in the vineyards Rocoul, Péléat, ermite, Méal and Maison Blanche. Despite the output, production is strictly artisanal with spontaneous fermentation, no clarification, no filtering and no more than 20% of the barrels for maturing new. Although not certified as organic, for many years no chemical products have been used in the vineyards. The line of production also includes two versions of Saint-Joseph and a very rare Vin de Paille.

It is not easy to gain access to the Jean-Louis Chave winery because, being a superstar, requests to visit the winery and taste the wines flood in from all over the world. It is even more difficult to take part in a vertical tasting with such a vast number of vintages, wines that are unanimously considered among wine lovers to be authentic legends and that are, unfortunately, victims of unbridled speculation because of this.

Hermitage Blanc 2016

96/100 - € 270

A golden-yellow color. The product of a year considered to be among the greatest for the northern Rhone Valley, this wine is already explosive with its bouquet of aromatic herbs and spice. The taut mouthfeel is bold yet balanced, with a fresh salinity and a flavorful and very long finish.

Hermitage Blanc 2007

93/100 - € 190

A golden-yellow color. The hot year took some of the pizazz out of this wine that still, however, maintains its balance and remarkable structure. The bouquet is complex and rich in nuances that range from aromatic herbs to spice with a very long and satisfying finish (Tasted from a magnum bottle).

Hermitage Blanc 2001 

96/100 - € 180

A golden-yellow color and clear scents of apricot and aromatic herbs. The mouthfeel is creamy and dense yet very fresh and saline with a pronounced progression and a deep finish of absolute elegance.

Hermitage Blanc 1985

97/100 - € 230

A golden-yellow color with clear scents of saffron and apricot enhanced by aromatic herbs. The fresh mouthfeel has high elegance and an enviable integrity with a saline, multifaceted and endless aftertaste.

Hermitage Blanc 1962 

99/100 - Vino da asta, circa € 450

This 57-year-old white is absolute perfection. It still has a bright, golden-yellow color and evident aromas of white fruit and spice. The mouthfeel is elegant, saline and relaxed, fully intact, bracing and distinct with a profound and brackish finish.

Hermitage 2016 

96/100 - € 380

Like the white, this great year also produced a great red. The wine has a bright, garnet color and classic aromas of spice and cinchona. The juicy mouthfeel has solid and silky tannins with amazing energy yet a perfect balance and an endless finish.

Hermitage 2000 

93/100 - € 340

Jean-Louis defined this vintage as “simpatico” and although we did not know what he meant, we liked its clear aromas of spice, tobacco and licorice. The elegant mouthfeel has fine tannins and a structure that is not bold but vibrant, with a taut acidity and a long and flavorful finish.

Hermitage 1998 

94/100 - € 420

The product of a cool year, the best characteristics of this wine are its elegance and juiciness.  It has a bright, garnet color and silky and mature tannins, intact fruit and a great flavorful tension with a saline and very long finish. (Tasted from a magnum bottle).

Hermitage 1995 

99/100 - € 350

In our humble opinion, this was “the” vintage, a complete wine. It has a bright, garnet color and a complex aroma of spice and graphite that is still austere thanks to a greater percentage of grapes from vineyards with a granite soil. The mouthfeel is explosive with its boldness, definition and absolute elegance, while the finish literally knocks you out with its floral notes and amazing vigor.

Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin 1991

98/100 - Vino da asta, € 7000

A very rare wine produced only in particular years with much of the grapes from the Bessards vineyard. The wine has a bright, garnet color and a rich aroma that ranges from black olive paste to violet and spice. The mouthfeel is almost whispered with its silky tannins and very delicate, soft sweetness. The structure is bold yet very elegant and bracing with a long and perfect finish.

Hermitage 1969

98/100 - € 750

As the years go by, the Hermitage from Clave tend to resemble more the Pinot Noir from the more northern region of Burgundy. This wine has a bright, garnet color and a bouquet that is floral yet still delicately fruity while the mouthfeel is all freshness and elegance. A wine of absolute integrity and depth. (Tasted from a magnum bottle).

Saint-Joseph Le Clos Florentin 2016 

95/100 - € 150

Jean-Louis is relentless in his efforts to restore old, abandoned vineyards. This wine is from an old clos (walled vineyard) that used to belong to the Church and later an homeopathic doctor. It has a dark, garnet color and clear aromas of violet, cinchona and dark fruit. The full mouthfeel is concentrated yet juicy with perfect tannins and an aftertaste that is still very young, saline and long.

Hermitage Vin de Paille 1990 

96/100 - Vino da asta, circa € 1500

A dessert wine made mostly from Marsanne grapes, the rest Roussanne, which is practically impossible to find being made only in particular years with only a few hundred half-bottles produced. The wine has an amber-yellow color and wrapping aromas of chestnut, orange peel and dried apricot. The mouthfeel is dense and concentrated yet, at the same time, very fresh and agile with a saline, clean and very long finish.

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