Cignano, both Bianchello and Sangiovese

The Bucchini family has been cultivating their vineyards for over 100 years at the heart of Valle del Metauro and in the DOC Bianchello del Metauro appellation.

Cignano is a small, Marche family-run wine estate and all their 15 hectares of vineyards surround the winery and the family home. The vineyards begin in the valley, near the road, to then climb rapidly up to the top of the hill. Aside from grapes, they also cultivate olives from which they produce an excellent, extra-virgin olive oil.

The estate is near Fossombrone, in the heart of the Valle del Metauro and at the center of the DOC Bianchello del Metauro appellation. They only use Bianchello, which is another name for Trebbiano, to make their white wine and thus, like other estates in the area, opt not to add other varieties allowed by appellation regulations.

In their 15 hectares of vineyards, the Bucchini family also cultivates Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Overall, they produce some 20,000 bottles a year and, as is often the case in the area, the sale of bulk wine represents a significant source of estate income.

The Bucchini family has been active in the area for over 100 years: first as tenant farmers and now as estate owners. Their vineyards have, for the most part, southern exposures and some have steep pitches. But the rolling Marche hills never disappoint visually and the surrounding landscape is amazing. So much so, in fact, that they have decided to build a new winery in the middle of the vineyards on the side of the hill, complete with a tasting room, which will be operational in the near future.

In the meantime, we were hosted in their old one, which is small but welcoming with two lovely Tuscan terracotta jars on display in a corner, where the Bianchello macerates on the skins. I am not particularly fond of this winemaking method because it produces Bianchello that is not very traditional and lacks its characteristics of simplicity, freshness and faint colors, which make this wine so easy to pair with the typical, local seafood cuisine.

Still, winemaking here is serious business: all the grapes are hand-picked, yield is kept very low and the estate is associated with FIVI, the Federation of Independent Winemakers, which now has over 1,000 members of small and medium-sized quality winemakers.

During my visit, I tasted their full line of production, even some Bianchello that was 2-3 years old. But the best Bianchello were those from 2018, which was also a very good year in this area. The big surprise was a bottle of Sangiovese, which in this area has not, up until now, produced remarkable results even if it is cultivated by practically everyone.

Bianchello del Metauro Bianco Assoluto 2018  

91/100 - € 10,00

Made from only Bianchello grapes from the youngest vines closest to the valley. Fermented in stainless steel on the fine lees until March and then aged for a few months in the bottle. A fairly clear, straw-yellow color and a typically faint, fruity, floral, fresh and fragrant aroma. The flavor is consistent with the aroma, yet more intense, and the mouthfeel fresh, crystalline, persistent and very good.

Bottles produced: 6,660.

Bianchello del Metauro Superiore San Leone 2018

89/100 - € 14,00

100% Bianchello grapes from the oldest vines with steep pitches and lower yields. Fermented for the most part on the lees until March, with 5% maturing in French barriques with frequent bâtonnage. A rather intense straw-yellow color with green reflections. The aroma is more intense and warm than its little brother with notes of ripe yellow fruit, citrus and balsamic sensations. The mouthfeel is also bolder with a nice complexity and freshness, which make this very drinkable.

Bottles produced: 4,500.

Colli Pesaresi Sangiovese Sottovento 2018 

92/100 - € 14,00

The grapes are fully destemmed, with Montepulciano accounting for 15% of the blend, and they undergo cold pre-fermentation before macerating at controlled temperatures for two weeks. The wine matures in stainless steel for six months and ages in the bottle for a year. The color is a luminous and bright ruby-red and the aroma is crispy and fresh with scents of red fruits with earthy and balsamic hints. The mouthfeel is consistent, fine and elegant with lovely tannins, a medium body, long persistence and excellent drinkability. A true gem, hats off.

Bottles produced: 6,660.

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