Cantine Ciani, a surprise in Irpinia

Wine lovers have a new place to go: Cantine Ciani, a must for those seeking elegance in Irpinia wines.

The Ciani family, which has produced wine since 1700, was the first in Irpinia – back in 1948 – to experiment with the espalier method of vine training when they planted a new vineyard on their land in the Mirabelle Eclano hills. In was here in this area so suited for cultivating Aglianico, Greco and Fiano grapes, for which there are three DOCG appellation in Campania, that Armando Ciani built his current, modern winery in 2006. It is surrounded by vineyards and centuries old olive trees and offers hospitality for those seeing the tranquility and the beauty of the countryside with rooms overlooking the uncontaminated landscape.

Working in collaboration with enologist Angelo Pizzi, Ciani produces wines that proudly reflect that small area of land: wines that are in no way standard and are rich in typicity, full of elegance and organoleptic cleanliness, with a surprising style and a complexity difficult to equal, a lithe and enjoyable drop that leaves a distinct and rare memory.

An example is their Taurasi 2009 – currently available retail – that demonstrates the extraordinary capacity of Aglianico to age, above all thanks to the terroir (soil, exposure and microclimate along with, I would add, man’s intervention), with moderate tannins that have been softened by time and an acidity that gives it strength and depth.

Then there are the white wines that – despite their young age – have distinct characteristics, drawing from the harsh and cold lands of upper Irpinia those unmistakable citrus and floral aromas (above all cyclamen and holly) and a clear and lively acidity.

The grapes are selected and picked in part from the six hectares of vineyards the winery owns, planted with Aglianico, while the white grapes come from suppliers located in Montefusco, Santa Paolina and Lapio. Total production is in the neighborhood of 100,000 bottles a year and they also produce an Irpinia Rosato (Rosé) and a Greco di Tufo matured in wood.

Taurasi 2009 

95/100 - € 20,00 

Made from Aglianico grapes and matured in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels of different sizes for around 18 months. The wine has a luminous, red-garnet color and a broad aroma of marsaca cherry, blueberry and humus with refined floral scents of violet and lavender on a smoky background with hints of spice. The mouthfeel is taut, acidic and very elegant with silky tannins giving the wine an extraordinary balance. The aftertaste is endless.

Bottles produced: 35,000.

Fiano di Avellino 2018 

94/100 - € 12,00 

Made with Fiano grapes from the Arianiello farm in Lapio. A luminous, straw color and aromas of tomato leaf, holly, fresh almond and Mediterranean shrubs. The mouthfeel is saline, warm, composed and fine with a nice persistence. I would let this age a few years.

Bottles produced: 30,000.

Greco di Tufo 2018

94/100 - € 12,00 

Made in stainless steel with Greco grapes from espalier-trained vines. A straw-yellow color and a persistent aroma of apricot, gorse, passion fruit and bitter orange. The mouthfeel is brackish, juicy and broad and becomes fresh with a long progression.

Bottles produced: 20,000.

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