Italiano
Bulichella in Val di Cornia
Bulichella is an estate that has quietly but diligently been striving towards quality, a clear example of which is their latest arrival: Suvereto DCG Montecristo 2015
Three years ago, after visiting the Bulichella estate, I had a question I couldn’t keep out of my head: will Hideyuchi Miyakawa, with the help of his daughter Shizuko, be able to carry out his project to raise the quality level of his wines from good to excellent in a short period of time?
It is always a risk to underestimate the ability of the Japanese to get things done, especially if it is that of one who came to Rome as a young man in the 1970s in a most adventurous way. Deep in my heart I hoped he would succeed, despite his now advancing age and physical ailments, but the doubt remained.
Towards the end of September, I received an invitation from Shizuko to take part in a tasting to be held, surprisingly, at Bulichella, where the whole family would be present. There was never a doubt I would attend, eve with the pressing commitments I had, because my curiosity and the esteem I had for the man and what he had achieved was too great.
The project was headed enologist Luca D’Attoma assisted by agronomist Andrea Lupi and the estate’s historic backbone Stefano Benvenuti who over the past three years worked quietly but with great dedication and skill to achieve Hideyuchi’s dream, this project, and they did.
A trio of excellent wines that were simply fantastic when they came out. The three wines that exemplify this new direction are: Tuscanio Bianco, made from Vermentino with small additions of Viognier; Hide, a Syrah varietal that has always been the estate’s signature wine; and the latest creation Montecristo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The two reds were vintage 2015 while the white is a 2017. All the wines are certified organic.
Suvereto Montecristo 2015
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot that matures in barriques for some 24 months. This new wine has a beautiful label that recalls important aspects in the founder’s life: the motorcycle that he rode to Italy, the cars he designed together with Giugiaro, the vines and Bulichella, a place of tranquility and linked to Napoleon, Hideyuki’s favorite historic figure. The wine has a dark and intense ruby color and a broad and elegant aroma with notes of dark fruit, underbrush and a touch of blood orange, all slightly smoky and balsamic. The mouthfeel has a pronounced attack with a thick texture and great progression that benefits from a nice freshness and very fine tannins. The finish is juicy and wrapping. Only 6,000 bottles were made,
Price: N/A
Hide 2015
Made from Syrah grapes and matured in barriques for some 18 months, the wine has a classic, slightly nuanced ruby color. The bouquet has clear aromas of cherry and Valencia orange that blend into notes of light and dark spices that are intriguing and persistent. The mouthfeel is austere, balanced and elegant with an excellent, fresh and incisive progression with refined tannins and an elegant and vertical finish.
93/100
35 Euros
Tuscanio Bianco 2017
A wine made from Vermentino grapes with a small addition of Viognier that matures on the lees in stainless steel for at least two months. The color is a bright, straw-yellow and the intense and assorted aroma has notes of Mediterranean brush, winter underbrush and fruity hints. The fresh and flavorful mouthfeel has a nice progression and a mint aftertaste.
88/100
15 Euros
