Italiano
Bisol, long live Traditional Method Cartizze
A series of tastings made it clear that secondary fermentation in the bottle is the best method to exalt the characteristics of Cartizze
The historic Prosecco estate Bisol is now part of the Lunelli Group, the Trentino family that owns the Ferrari bubbly brand. Gianluca and Desiderio Bisol are still at the estate in important executive positions, Gianluca is president, and productive roles, Desiderio is in charge of winemaking.
During our last visit to their historic winery in Santo Stefano in Valdobbiadene we had a wonderful experience. Aside from the other Prosecco produced, the latest versions of Rive and Cartizze, we also tasted their top-quality Private Metodo Classico 2014. The highpoint of the visit, however, was tasting the base wines before they underwent secondary fermentation.
These latter tastings brought out the immense differences between the vineyards on the hills and those on the plain. These differences sometimes diminish after secondary fermentation, not so much with Bisol wines as with other producers in the area, probably due to the high dosage added to their products. The differences between Prosecco from the flat area of the DOC appellation and the Superiore DOCG of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano becomes abyssal when you taste the base wines. These give an additional value to the wine that is so clear and evident that it justifies the price difference between the two types of Prosecco. A price that also involves the agronomic differences and production costs between the two areas. We hoped that Prosecco’s success does not lead of a leveling of the quality pyramid that has been so well established by the organs responsible for its production.
From our visit we fondly recall the vision of Cartizze Traditional Method bottles aging in the cellars and as well as the wonder museum corner created inside the cellars. The Traditional Method would appear to be the best to exalt both Cartizze and Rive thanks to their ability to sit long on the lees, as demonstrated by the 2012 Private that is still aging and was disgorged for a quick and very interesting tasting in the cellar. Here is a review of the 2014 which is currently in the market.
Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Private Dosaggio Zero 2014
Made from Glera grapes using the Traditional Method for secondary fermentation with the wine sitting on the lees for at least 24 months. The wine has a pale, straw-yellow color and an excellent bouquet with scents of peach and medlar along with a very intense and clear floral note. The attack of the mouthfeel is excellent with a refined effervescence and a salty acidity that are well-entwined in the wine’s texture. The finish perfectly corresponds with the aroma and the persistence is ample.
94/100
€ 26
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Relio Rive di Guia Brut 2017
Minimum 85% Glera with other local white grapes, from the cru Rive di Guia. Straw yellow color with light green hues and fine perlage. Fresh notes of mint, white pear and melon with a floral touch. To the palate it is fine and fresh, tasty and juicy. The name Relio is a tribute to Aurelio Bisol, who was so named.
93/100
€ 23
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Campea Extra Dry 2017
Minimum 85% Glera with other local white grapes, from the Campea vineyard. Straw yellow color with greenish reflections, minute perlage. Nose of ripe fruit, yellow peach, papaja. To the palate it is soft and round, fine and with a very pleasant sweet finish.
92/100
€ 15
