An echo of France in Masseria Piccirillo wine

Following his studies in Bordeaux, Giovanni Piccirillo joined his family’s winery and introduced changes, eliminating the rustic note in their wines in favor of lightness and elegance.

It is becoming increasingly evident that the new generations running family estates have been able to revolutionize – in a positive sense – what had been for years the characteristics of their wineries. Their training background, and not just in regard to techniques, together with their skills in all stages of production have become key for a leap in quality.

A case in point is Masseria Piccirillo Beat Colli, a small winery with three hectares of vineyards, cultivated with Pallagrello and Casavacchia grapes, situated in the Caiaine Hills a few kilometers from the Caserta Royal Palace. After 33 harvests, Carmine Piccirillo turned over the management of his vineyards and winery to his son Giovanni who, after earning a degree in enology, had gone to France to further his education at the Istitut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin in Bordeaux.  He followed this with work experiences at two maisons, including at a famous Epernay-based Champagne producer. This experienced allowed Giovanni, when he returned home, to create a traditional method bubbly using Pallagrello Bianco grapes. This was the first time that this method had been experimented with using the native grapes from the historic Vigna del Ventaglio vineyard and it demonstrated how suited this varietal was for making a sparkling wine. The grapes were from pergola-trained vines, which protected the bunches from the sun and allowed them to retain their natural acidity, and they were the first to be harvested.

Giovanni’s approach extended to the rest of production and has resulted in a shift in style noticeable in the latest vintages, with the elimination of their rustic note and a greater emphasis on lightness and elegance. The wines are now more lithe and at the same time interesting, nicely reflective of the territory and with a note of freshness that comes out in an immediate and clear way.

Aside from the sparkling Prima Goia, he currently also produces a still Pallagrello Bianco that is balanced and complete. A few years are still needed to evaluate his wines made from red grapes, like Casavecchia and Pallagrello Nero, but we can say now that they will be characterized by a distinct use of wood, by a strong imprint from the varietal and by well-managed tannins.

Prima Gioia Spumante Brut Millesimato 2017

90/100 - € 20,00   

Made from only Pallagrello grapes using the traditional method and sitting on the lees for 18 months. The wine has a bright, straw-yellow color and a thick and continuous effervescence. The bouquet is of green apple, yellow peach, lemon and fresh almond while the mouthfeel is rich and fresh with a nice volume and persistence.

Bottles produced: 3,000.

Pallagrello Bianco Terre del Vulturno Igt 2018 

89/100 - € 12,00  

Made in stainless steel from Pallagrello grapes. An intense straw color and a broad and fragrant aroma of citrus, white fruit and thyme. The mouthfeel is distinguished by the acidity and salinity that leave room for a vegetal note and a floral hint. A balanced and pleasing wine.

Bottles produced: 2,500.

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