Roberto Conterno enchants Gattinara

After acquiring the historic Gattinara estate Nervi, Roberto Conterno proved again he knows his stuff with a delicious Gattinara Molsino 2014.

It is no secret that Roberto Conterno is one of Italy’s most brilliant winemakers. His Barolo Monfortino is perhaps one of the most iconic among Langhe wines and even his Barbera d’Alba is extraordinary.

As of this year (although he had been collaborating with the estate in secret for some time) he has put his “signature” on the wines from Nervi, the historic Gattinara estate he recently acquired. The first results are simply formidable. I can say this because a few days ago, at the Goccetto in Rome, I tasted his 2014, not an easy year, Gattinara Molsino (one of the estate’s two cru the other being is Vallerana) and it confirmed yet again that Roberto Conterno knows his stuff.

And it made me think that if we are looking for a red in Italy that can hold its own with a Burgundy, rather than seek some domestic version of Pinot Noir, we should look towards northern Piedmont and the wines made from Nebbiolo (excuse me, Spanna), in places like Lessona, Boca, Ghemme and, in this case, Gattinara. These wines are often agile and elegant, with accentuated tannins and a hardy yet never excessive acidity.

And Gattinara Molsino 2014 is exactly this.

Gattinara Molsino 2014 Nervi

95/100 - € 75

Made from Nebbiolo grapes, locally known as Spanna, and matured in large barrels for four years. The wine has a luminous, garnet color and a bouquet with floral notes of violet followed by those of flint and hints of currant and mint. The mouthfeel is saline, extremely agile, silky, “dangerously” drinkable and elegant and gutsy at the same time. The finish is subtle and very persistent. Delicious.

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