Banfi, Brunello Riserva Poggio all’Oro

A lovely vertical tasting demonstrated how Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro has consistently improved over the years, achieving truly excellent results with their splendid vintage 2016.

The Cavalieri Hilton Hotel recently staged a vertical tasting of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro Banfi. The estate, working with the Italian Sommeliers Federation (FIS), who hosted the event, offered a welcomed surprise for those who came early:  an itinerant tasting of all the products from the Montalcino brand. Some were very interesting like the previews of Excelsus 2018, the new version of their traditional method 100-month Alta Langhe, from their branch in Piedmont; the 2020 vintage of Aska Bolgheri; and the 2018 Brunello, all which helped pass the time in a very pleasing way.

The vertical tasting began at 6pm sharp and starred their most representative wine: Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro. Although the wine was invented by Ezio Rivella, with vintage 1985, the person who brought it to its height was the late Rudy Buratti, who for decades was the estate’s technical director, something they forgot to mention at the tasting. They also forgot to recall how Poggio dell’Oro is made with grapes from a single vineyard only from 2000 onwards, having previously been an estate selection.

Nevertheless, the tasting went more than smoothly and confirmed the validity of the project and its evolution focusing on juicy elegance, refined tannins and a drinkability that nicely respects the area near Tavernelle, where the soil is for the most part sandy in origin. The bouquet is always clear and intriguing and, admirably, never indulges in excessive ripe notes that is a risk in this zone. The truth be told, while the vineyard is slightly raised, it is above all the estate’s winemaking skill that is the best guarantee for we Brunello lovers.

Up on stage, aside from the master of ceremonies Paolo Lauciani, were the estate owner Cristina Mariani and the “new” lead players at Banfi: Rodolfo Maralli (who has been at the estate for decades), who in January was named chairman of the Board at Banfi, while remaining at his post as director of sales and marketing; and Gabriele Pazzaglia, the talented technical director who worked closely with Buratti for years. Having frequented Banfi for years, I was sorry not to see Enrico Viglierchio, the estate’s lively heart and soul, who in January became the chairman of the board at Banfi Società Agricola.

The estate’s effort to offer vintages now impossible to find like the 1985, the first produced, were admirable and certainly interesting even if it represented a kind of Montalcino artifact, which had a pro in terms of flavor but aromatic limitations due to age. This was a Brunello for those who love that kind of wine. Of the trio of wines offered from the 1990s, the most surprising was vintage 1993, which was often overlooked by wine lovers. Aging has improved the balsamic notes that in youth were somewhat overwhelming and thus the bouquet is now more relaxed and the flavor elegant making this an excellent drop. The 1997 initially had a warm bouquet and muscular mouthfeel. This was a vintage that the Americans initially hailed but then had to “eat their words”.

Below are the reviews of three wines from the first decade of the 2000s along with three from the second decade. Click on the name to read the data sheets.

• Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro 2004 
• Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro 2006
• Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro 2010
• Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro 2013
• Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro 2015
• Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro 2016

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