Abruzzo as told in the Gironi DiVini

Three hundred tastings from seventy-five wineries to discover Abruzzo's best wines in Gironi DiVini 2023 competition.

During the four days of Anteprima Gironi DiVini 2023 curated by Franco Santini, which saw us involved in tasting wines from Abruzzo, a number of the region's wine productions were selected through a face-to-face discussion between producers and technical jury. To be evaluated initially were wines from the Casauria and Vestini subzones and the Colline Teramane, followed by a roundup of more natural productions. The latter, produced according to a less interventionist conduct, proposed a vision of an Abruzzo with characters more untethered from conventional production logics and for the most part well-crafted tastings, without volatiles or microbial contamination that was often decidedly marking and unnatural.

The Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo category is the one that dictated the timing of most of the debates, dividing the audience between proponents of the intense, almost pale-red, traditional color and supporters of a more Provencal style, aimed at foreign markets and outside the region. The standoff between too intense for a rosé and too light for a Cerasuolo takes a turn, however, with the more than 70 wines tasted, of which only three or four had "pale-pink" hues. A disparity that can be explained by the greater consumption within the regional borders and its perfect marriage with Abruzzo's gastronomy. It is also interesting to note that this wine could satisfy the preferences of consumers looking for a lighter red, in terms of structure, easy drinking and versatility.

Among the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines, the distinction between zones and subzones, styles and ageings, has been most noticeable. Although the general trend is to offer a vision of the great Abruzzese red lightened in structure, with harvest and winemaking choices aimed at obtaining products more in line with current palates, the great character of Montepulciano presents itself well both as an aging red and in younger vintages, without excessive use of wood. Subtle differences exist between the Casauria and Vestini subzones, one close to DOCG recognition and the other in the process of certification, especially in the innermost contiguous parts, where greater potential for longevity and complexity stands out in the wines. Slightly further north, in the Teramane Hills, the vocation and historicity of the appellation give wines of remarkable level and with a great territorial identity.

More boundless is the universe of Abruzzo whites. The stylistic imprints in some cases are rather strong and harness too much territory and varietal expressions, already difficult to enhance in vintages marked by climatic contrasts and vegetative-productive imbalances. Another reason for this lesser areal definition of whites can be traced to the spread of certain varieties, which for reasons of production or commercial success are now found throughout the region. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo and, in particular, Pecorino have taken over the wine scene with many excellent interpretations, yet the importance of less widespread varieties such as Passerina, Coccocciola and Montonico cannot be underestimated.

Here are some of the wines we think are worthy among all those we tasted:

• Terraviva (Colline Teramane), Abruzzo Pecorino Ekwo 2022 
• Cingilia (Terre di Casauria), Colline Pescaresi Cococciola 2022
• Faraone (Colline Teramane), Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Le Vigne 2022
• Rabottini (Teate), Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Per Iniziare 2018
• Marchesi De’ Cordano (Terre dei Vestini), Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Santinumi 2016
• Centorame (Colline Teramane), Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Castellum Vetus 2017

Related Products