Barolo Bricco Rocche, the soul of Ceretto

by Annalucia Galeone 02/03/23
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Verticale Ceretto Bricco Rocche

A brief vertical showed that in the glass we feel neither Nebbiolo nor Barolo, but a handkerchief of land that represents a precise idea of Barolo according to the Ceretto family.

We are in Alba, in the Langhe, a lush area dotted with hills, forests and hospitable villages, which in 2014 was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here the Cerettos have written a story of passion, the tale unfolding between the winery, starred cuisine and contemporary art. They have been winemakers since 1930, over the past 20 years they have embarked on a journey to make agriculture more environmentally sustainable, this path led to organic certification in 2015.

The current generation is represented by Lisa, Roberta, Alessandro and Federico the children of Bruno and Marcello Ceretto, the "Barolo brothers" according to Wine Spectator. The two were visionary and somewhat crazy characters who threw their hearts over the hurdle. Selecting vineyards in the most historically sound areas was their idea, a revolution at a time when the concept of cru was unknown. "The work tacked on by previous generations has created a system where quality is the reason for attraction and differentiation," said Roberta Ceretto. "The Langhe has become a point of reference for Italian oenology and among the first ambassadors of Italian excellence. They are a model of consistency and planning that goes beyond producing wine; the common thread is the aspiration to do better and better and to give more and more value to the uniqueness of the territory. It is a team effort." The connection between the Cerettos and the Langhe is strong and unbreakable, and the company and family history is strongly rooted. Mario Soldati said, "Everything revolves around wine, it is not the inhabitants that monopolize one of their products, it is the product that monopolizes its inhabitants."

The Cerettos and chef Enrico Crippa are the founding partners of the Piazza Duomo restaurant, the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Piedmont. In 2005, La Piola restaurant was opened on the ground floor of the Piazza Duomo location. Hospitality is declined on a less formal and more convivial proposal, on the menu only traditional Piedmontese dishes prepared by chef Dennis Panzeri under Crippa's supervision.

The family's dynamically conceived business includes Relanghe, a pastry micro-laboratory dedicated to Piedmont's PGI hazelnut, the tonda gentile. Processed hazelnuts come from an 80-hectare plantation they own and from a few select contributors, skilled hands turn them into nougat, gianduiotti, sweet truffles and a hazelnut cake from a recipe by Enrico Crippa. 

The Cerettos are patrons, they support art, design and architecture, they believe that through the ingenuity of artists it is possible to give value to a place, to pass on culture and a sense of enterprise, famous is the Cappella del Barolo, a building never consecrated and created in 1989 by Sol LeWitt and David Tremlett. 

The review "The Great Wine Families Tell Their Own Stories," organized by the Italian Sommelier Foundation in Puglia, was dedicated to the iconic Langhe family with a historic vertical of Bricco Rocche Barolo Docg with vintages 2013-2008-2006-1995-1990; the bottles come from the private collection and are now unobtainable. The family's Barolo crus are vinified in the Castiglione Faletto winery, established in 1982, this is the smallest Barolo monopole. The winery is located in the center of the appellation, these are wines that harmonize the main characteristics of the entire district, the circle goes full circle in the glass. The olfactory matrix is sanguine and austere, it shakes and fills the nostrils, the density of the tannin gives a vigorous but succulent and long sip. Paolo Lauciani, who conducted the tasting, explained, "Wine is a synergy that begins with the ability to read a territory. In the glass we will feel neither Nebbiolo nor Barolo, but a handkerchief of land that represents a precise idea of Barolo according to the Ceretto family." 

The Cerettos have plans to open a new restaurant in La Morra and build a new modern art installation in Roero among the Blangé vineyards. The project is still top secret.

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