Enantio, the wine that never ages

The Roeno winery has made itself the guardian of this ancient vine, cultivated on a free-range basis, and year after year has understood and interpreted its personality.

Once again it is he (and who else?) who tells us about Enantio, Pliny the Elder, who in the Naturalis Historia first mentions these wild vines, vitis silvestris, cultivated and "quod vocatur oenanthium" (which are called Enantio, ed.).

But we have to wait until 1991 to see the start of the project for the enhancement of this native Trentino vine with the application for registration in the National Catalogue of Wine Grape Vine Varieties, finalized the following year. Today, the Roeno winery, a family-run winery in the borderland between Veneto and Trentino, officially proclaims itself the guardian of the free-range Enantio. This Terradeiforti vine will also become a Slow Food Presidium in 2022.

Indulged, guided and partly tamed, from the 2015 vintage the Enantio in the Riserva version of Roeno best expresses, in the words of the Fugatti Family, its terroir and origin. Rustic, acidic, late-ripening, thick-skinned, with little pulp and lots of pips, it sinks its roots frankly by foot into sandy soils; loaded in polyphenols to the point of being impenetrable to color and in some respects even to tannic texture, with a 2,000-year history behind it, it seems never to want and never to be able to age. Here's how it did in the glass. 

• Roeno, Terradeiforti Enantio Riserva 1865 Pre-fillossera 2008
• Roeno, Terradeiforti Enantio Riserva 1865 Pre-fillossera 2009
• Roeno, Terradeiforti Enantio Riserva 1865 Pre-fillossera 2015
• Roeno, Terradeiforti Enantio Riserva 1865 Pre-fillossera 2016
• Roeno, Terradeiforti Enantio Riserva 1865 Pre-fillossera 2017

To read the organoleptic description, score and price click on the name.

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