Vermentino di Gallura on the podium
Vermentino is a varietal rich in color and extracts typically found on Italy’s Tyrrhenian coasts and the best wines made from it are from Sardinia and, in particular, Gallura.
Vermentino, known in Portugal as Codega, spread from the Iberian Peninsula to Liguria, Corsica, Sardinia and, to a minor degree, Tuscany. It is it is a not-so-distant cousin of Malvasia, especially the variety found on the island of Madeira from where it probably spread to Europe. Backing up this theory is the fact that the two grapes share a common richness in color and extracts.
In recent years the focus had been on producing fresh and lively wines that are fruity and pleasing using only Vermentino. The wine has a yellow color with golden reflections and a broad and fresh aroma while the mouthfeel is dry, rounded, warm and delicately aromatic.
In Sardinia there are three types of Vermentino wine: Vermentino di Gallura, which was given a DOCG classification in 1996, a traditionally more structured wine and with a higher alcohol content and the subject of this article; the sparkling Alghero Vermentino; and Vermentino di Sardegna, which is made throughout the island. This latter wine is less defined and can be a structured wine that can easily age for two-three years in the bottle or a fresh and drinkable wine ideal to pair with simple fish dishes or consumed as an aperitif.
Vermentino Ligure is somewhat less structured but elegant and its Riviera del Ponente and Coll di Luni appellations have a DOC classification. Liguria produces a blend of Vermentino with Bosco and Albarola varietals while Vermentino is also used to produce the famous Cinqueterre white wine and the rare and prestigious dessert Passito wine known as Sciacchetrà. Native to Liguria is the varietal Pigato that many consider to be a variety of Vermentino.
In Tuscany, Vermentino is used to make Candia dei Colli Apuani, Montecarlo and Bolgheri Vermentino, all have a DOC classification and can be made as a single grape wine or as a blend.
The following selection are what we consider to be the best Vermentino di Gallura.