Italiano
Riserva 2017 Morellino despite the heat
Tastings of Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2017 showed how, while bold, they maintain their freshness and drinkability.
Many remember the summer of 2017 as being the hottest and driest of the decade and thus, obviously, had consequences for winemaking. Tuscany, in particular, suffered a lot from climate conditions, with production falling to less than two million hectoliters, -37% over 2016 and -30% over the average for the decade. This was a considerable drop if one considers that the national production decline that year was -15%. Red wines suffered the most, even among the PDO (DOC and DOCG) wines which plummeted -36%.
With this in mind, we went to the Anteprime Toscane (Tuscan Previews) where we tasted many 2017 wines and, depending on the area, even some Riserva, for example Morellino di Scansano. Production in this DOCG appellation sank around 25% but, as pointed out at the time by the president of the Consorzio di Tutela producers’ association, Rossano Teglielli, the quality was good. “The Morellino di Scansano 2017 harvest was in line with the trend in Tuscany – his official statement said – despite variations depending on the area in the appellation. The situation was thus spotty: some zones saw sharp drops in yield, while others weathered well the climatic and environmental conditions.”. This not only included drought but also spring frosts, which accounted for a 5-10% decline in yield.
During the Chianti Lovers event, where the Consorzio Morellino di Scansano was present alongside the Consorzio Chianti DOCG, the tastings offered Morellino 2019 and Riserva 2017. We focus here on the latter to underscore how a prudent cultivation of the vineyard, with already authorized emergency irrigation, along with the fortune of having soils that held any humidity and had favorable exposures, made it possible to overcome the extreme weather conditions recorded that year.
We found some Riserva that, while having a bold body, also had lots of fruit upheld by an acidity which gave it drinkability. The following are those we liked the best.
Morellino di Scansano Roggiano Riserva 2017 Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano
93/100 - € 13
A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot that matures for 12 months in French barriques (20% new and the rest used). A full, ruby color and a classic, fruity aroma of black cherry and cherry, along with mentholated and slightly floral hints. The mouthfeel is intense, elegant and flavorful with rounded tannins and a long, fruity finish.
Morellino di Scansano Laire Riserva 2017 Bruni
92/100 - € 18
A blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Syrah that matures 10 months in barriques. A dark, ruby color and an intense and fruity aroma of blackberry and blueberry jam, accompanied by some light, sweet spice. The mouthfeel is dense yet juicy, with evident but integrated tannins and a fruity, prune aftertaste. Classic.
Morellino di Scansano Purosangue Riserva 2017 Terenzi
91/100 - € 14
100% Sangiovese matured in 50hl barrels for 12 months. A deep, ruby color and a warm and wrapping aroma of dark fruit, also as jam. Very classic. A hint of austerity underscores a full and flavorful mouthfeel, a lovely progression and relaxed tannins. The finish has nuances of licorice.
Morellino di Scansano Colli dell’Uccellina Riserva 2017 Cantina La Selva
89/100 - € 17
A blend 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot, both certified organic, matured for 12 months in Allier barriques. The color is a full, ruby and while the aroma is not perfectly clear, the notes of dark fruit are pleasingly underscored by balsamic hints. The mouthfeel has nice body, a kirsch flavor and a balanced yet overall warm finish.
Morellino di Scansano Moris Riserva 2017 Morisfarms
89/100 - € 19
A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon matured for 12 months in barriques. A ruby-red color with an intense aroma of fruit, strawberry and raspberry, followed by scents of cinchona and balsamic and spice hints. The mouthfeel is dense and variated, balanced and saline, with a lovely, fruity aftertaste.
