Ermete Medici vs Lini 910: when Lambrusco takes off

A surprising vertical tasting of two traditional method Lambrusco Reggiano made from the Salamino variety: Grand Concerto Medici Ermete and In Correggio Rosso Lini 910.

Twenty years ago I would more than likely be writing about the Lambrusco from where I come from, Maestri, or the quintessential Lambrusco, Sorbara, Italy’s true “home brew Pinot Noir”. These two wines remain my favorites of which there are some outstanding versions with top characteristics and that can bring joy to any table and any meal.

However, today I want to talk about two Lambrusco that have revolutionized the concept of quality for this wine. Both are Lambrusco Reggiano made from the Salamino variety and both come from historic wineries with a very long history in making sparkling wines. After years of experimentation, they now apply this experience to transforming “common” Lambrusco, traditionally known for being a grapey, fun wine to drink without pretense. And they did this by applying the Traditional Method used for Champagne to exalt the wine’s propensity to age and change the image of Lambrusco in the collective imagination.

The two protagonists of this operation are:

Lini 910, founded in 1910 in Correggio, a town in the province or Reggio Emilia. Already well-known and versed in producing sparkling wines, they were able to study the Champenoise Method in France thanks to their technical collaboration and commercial ties with the Reims Maison Mumm. This allowed them to produce some of the best Traditional Method wines in the entire Emilia Romagna region. Applying this method using the Lambrusco Salamino varietal was a natural evolution and involved a strict selection of grapes from the oldest vines, much lower yields than what were standard and maniacal attention paid during the stage of creating effervescence. Ten years sitting on the lees produced a Lambrusco with unique characteristics and an unimaginable complexity while maintaining the grapes original traits and, in fact, discovering unknown qualties of this variety.

Ermete Medici has an equally important history and was established in 1890 in Villa Gaida, a small district in the city of Reggio Emilia. The founders had a restaurant background but also a passion for making wine and the success they had with their own customers convinced Remigio and Ermete, after whom the winery is named, to make wine full time. The involvement of Alberto Medici turned around their method for producing Lambrusco. They decided to plant their own vines and train them using the cordon spur system, a revolutionary step for Lambrusco at the time.  This gave them greater control over production and significantly lower yield. The result of this approach was the birth, in 1993, of Concerto, a 100% Lambrusco Salamino made with grapes from a single vineyard. Then, in the early years of the new millennium, came an exclusive Traditional Method wine (some 2-3,000 bottles a year) made with grapes from their oldest vines (planted in 1987 and thus over 30 years old): Gran Concerto which has become a must for Lambrusco lovers.

The following are two vertical tastings of four vintages of these authentic gems to show you how they stand the test of time and appreciate the great evolution and sensorial changes that time has generated.

The bottles were religiously stored in climate-controlled cellars, far away from light and traffic vibrations at a constant humidity of 75% and next to some of the world’s greatest bubblies.

The evaluations are totally personal and are made in comparison to the recognized characteristics of this wine. However, the sensorial value of the wines is absolutely surprising compared to the average Lambrusco available. Furthermore, the tastings of all the vintages took place at the same time and thus the evaluations are not in comparison to previous tastings when the wines first came out and the characteristics are the result of the evolution of the different vintages.

Gran Concerto 2017 Medici Ermete 

95/100 - € 18

Disgorged December 2019. An intense red color with some garnet hues also found in the rich effervescence. The bouquet still has some coquettish grapey notes reflecting the wine’s youth. The aroma eases in the glass offering distinct scents of marasca cherry, fresh red rose and elegant spice nuances. The mouthfeel stands out for its roundness and fullness, uplifted by a petillant fizziness and lively acidity.

Gran Concerto 2016 

94/100 - € 18 

Disgorged December 2018. The red color is still bold with some light, garnet hues. The effervescence has abated somewhat and become more intriguing. The aromas are more those from bottle aging but continue to be dominated by red fruit while the note of spice is sharper as is the hint of cacao. The mouthfeel is very fine with rounded tannins and an acidity that is still lively making this extremely pleasing to drink.

Gran Concerto 2015 

95/100 

Disgorged December 2017. The color is oddly more intact than the 2016 with an impressive and bold red also in the rich and persistent effervescence. The aromas are of wild berries, peonies and black cherry with a light, balsamic hint. The broad mouthfeel has excellent structure and richness and still has lots of tension.

Gran Concerto 2012 

95/100 

Disgorged December 2014. The fascinating color is a lovely and concentrated red with very light hues of orange in the edge. The effervescence is light and very fine and the surprising bouquet has rich scents of underbrush, hints of humus and distinct whiffs of spice and return of cacao. The velvety mouthfeel, in a certain way austere, is uplifted by the effervescence.

In Correggio Rosso 2009 Lini 910

95/100 - € 20 

A nicely transparent, intense red color with a rich effervescence that has intense pink reflections. The nose is only slightly fruity and the aromas are unusually already those from bottle aging with notes of leather and juniper on a background of red fruit jam. The seraphic mouthfeel is relaxed with sensations of pomegranate and tobacco.

In Correggio Rosso 2006 

95/100 - € 20 

The red color is still pronounced with only a few garnet notes that make it even more fascinating. The aromas are decidedly articulated and complex, different from those associated with Lambrusco. There are light scents of chocolate, root, pomegranate and tar. The velvety mouthfeel has an exemplary freshness, surprising drinkability and propensity to easily pair with any traditional Emilia dish as if by magic.

In Correggio Rosso 2005

93/100 

The faintest color of the whole group: a clear and transparent red with a nice intensity but with garnet notes while the effervescence is light and feeble. The aromas recall cherry and black cherry preserves and there are unavoidable hints of spice and tobacco with some sensations of humus. The mouthfeel seems thin but, in reality, has a bold acidity and is fragrant and captivating.

In Correggio Rosso 2004

96/100

The red color is more intense than that of the 2005 and has nice density and chromatic tension with only a few garnet hues to denote an age that is quite old for a Lambrusco. The bouquet is an explosion of wild prunes and blueberry with pleasing scents of tobacco and cacao. The mouthfeel is relaxed thanks to its softness and acidic tension with a surprising progression which with breathing produces an amazing persistence.

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