2021: The latest Conegliano Valdobbiadene vintage

Prosecco Superiore DOCG produced in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene district, situated in the hills of a UNESCO Heritage Site, had a really good year in 2021, as demonstrated by tasting the wines currently available on the market.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the cradle of Prosecco and Glera.

This is an arduous land of hills with an over 1,000-year history of winegrowing which is documented as far back as 1300, with the first evidence of the cultivation of the varietal Glera (then known as Prosecco) dated 1800. After 1930, winegrowing became the main agricultural activity here with over 70% of the land dedicated to this activity, of which 60% involved Prosecco.

The Prosecco hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene are home today to 8,712 hectares of vineyards (with expansion frozen from 2019 to 2023), which produce 104.7 million certified bottles produced a year including those of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The latter is one of two DOCGs that produce the so-called Prosecco from the hills. The wines are “created by nature and formed by man,” according to Diego Tomasi, the new director of the producers’ Consorzio association, who added that the area can fully be considered a “terroir”.

Prosecco is for the most part made from the Glera grape, a minimum of 85%, a native varietal that ripens late and benefits from distinct diurnal temperature variations in the autumn that ensure that the aromas mature properly. The fact that the zone is backed by the pre-Alpine foothills contributes quite a bit to this. Prosecco for the most part undergoes secondary fermentation in an autoclave, the Charmat-Martinotti Method. It also sits on the lees for around four months.

Prosecco is famous the world over for its sweetness, starting with its aromas, delicate and expressive, along with its traditionally soft dosage, even if the trend is changing in part to meet the market demand for a drier wine and in part to respond to climate change which demands finding a new balance. The wine stands out for its immediate drinkability, thanks also to a method of production that allows it to reach the markets only months after harvest, and for being easy to comprehend. Some of the bubbly can even be extreme with residue at the bottom of the bottle, sur lie. This is a DOCG in its own right, which is never disgorged and so it is somewhat cloudy and all the sugars have fermented. It is a Prosecco of long ago, when autoclaves did not exist, and today many refer to it as “grandpa’s wine” and it is becoming increasingly popular among young people.

Special mention should be made for the Valdobbiadene Superiore from the subzone of Cartizze, a Prosecco from 107 hectares in the Cartizze Hills. The numbers speak for themselves with all bottles produced being sold, thanks to consumers considering this to be an excellent wine, which also explains its higher price and presence at important restaurants.

How is the climate changing in the Conegliano and Valdobbiadene hills?

In general, the risk of extreme weather phenomena is undoubtedly the greatest fear among winegrowers. While it is true that temperatures continue to rise year after year, the greatest damage comes from violent storms, out-of-season frosts, excessive rainfall or drought. And here the role played by the hills to combat climate change is fundamental.

The position and topography of this area remain its strongpoints, with the higher altitude essential for the late-harvest even in years when wine vines blossom early. The sedimentary origin of the soil and other natural traits help to give the grapes character. The marl soil helps retain moisture, thanks to its clay component, while the mixture of other components including marine substances help the vines that do not have deep roots. The morainic soil has more gravel and stones and is the one that suffers the most from drought although here it benefits from the cool air from the Alps.

The latest vintage: 2021

All indications are that 2021 will be a very good year, both on paper and in the glass. And the first wines are now available.

The weather in 2021 could be defined as difficult, with a cold and wet May followed by a hot and dry summer, especially in June. July and August were more or less balanced in regard to diurnal temperatures, with low nighttime temperatures even a blessing. This is because low temperatures help to combat blight. Temperatures were low in 2021 both when the vines were blossoming and during harvest. The grapes ripened long and slowly, benefitting the aromas and creating interesting levels of sugars and acidity. Overall, 2021 could be considered to be in the norm.

Le Volpere

I took advantage of my review of 2021 wines to also discover new producers and this one was new for me, as well as for most people given that the winery was established in 2009. Even though the family of brothers Matteo and Luca De Rosso has been involved in winegrowing for five generations, it was only in 2009 that they began to make their own wine with their own grapes under the brand Le Volpere. This was part of a growing trend that began in the 1980s and saw many winegrowers becoming small winemakers. The Le Volpere winery is clean, modern and, at the same time, authentic. Their slogan is Winegrowers on the Steep Slope, a clear reference to the fact that cultivating 11 hectares divided into 15 different plots on a hillside is not child’s play.

Beginning in 2022, the estate expanded into wine tourism with a new, modern and welcoming tasting facility. 2021 produced excellent results also for Le Volpere but here we look at a 2020 Rive di Pramaor Còl Miliane Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Brut, which has an unbeatable quality-price ratio and matured long on the lees. This wine is a perfect example of an exception that proves the rule, the one that says a Prosecco should be fresh and consumed as soon as it comes out. With this wine Le Volpere has shown us how, even in the world of Charmat Method and Glera, aging is a key element and we have only respect for this.

Le Volpere
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Premaor Còl Miliane 2020

92 - € 11,00

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