Rottensteiner: wines from red stone

An historic Alto Adige estate that, between its own grapes and those of growers who have supplied them for generations, is able to stand out in a region with a very high level of quality.

Space in our Essential Guide to Italian Wines is extremely limited and for certain regions we are forced to make some painful and difficult choices. The region of Alto Adige is a prime example given that the average level of quality there is very high and there are many estates and wineries. We thus try to “compensate” with reviews throughout the year.

A pleasant encounter in Rome allowed us to enhance our knowledge of the wine from the Rottensteiner family, which has its roots in the area beginning with its name, which translates red stone and is the distinguishing factor in this land where the Reiterhof farmstead was founded a few centuries ago and where progenitor Toni was born. The estate is now in the hands of his children who run it in an innovative way, bottling most of the production that comes from the four farms they have around Bolzano, for a total of 12 hectares of vineyards. The Rottensteiner family also uses grapes from 60 growers in other parts of Alto Adige who have supplied them for generations, creating a very reliable and proud family, bring the total of vineyard hectares to almost 90.

The different suppliers allow them to use grapes from areas particularly suited for certain varietals with Sauvignon, for example, coming from San Michele Appiano. During our tasting, we were particularly impressed by the Sauvignon and the Santa Maddalena wines while for the estate’s showcase wine, their Pinot Bianco, we have reserved a separate review.

Alto Adige Sauvignon 2018 

93/100 - € 12 

Made from Sauvignon and matured on the lees in stainless steel for several months. The wine has a pale, straw-yellow color with green reflections and an intense and clear bouquet with scents of boxwood, flint and winter underbrush with a tropical hint. The mouthfeel is very flowing and flavorful with an enviable freshness and a flavorful, savory and elegant finish.

Bottles produced: 10,000.

Alto Adige Santa Maddalena Classico Vigna Premstallerhof 2018

91/100 - € 11

Made mostly from Schiava grapes with a small addition of Lagrein and matured in oak barrels for 6-8 months. A bright, pale-ruby color and a captivating aroma with floral notes, violet and cyclamen, slightly fruity ones of fresh cherry and a touch of light spice. The mouthfeel is agile and flavorful, quite elegant and savory with a very consistent, pleasing and persistent finish.

The Premstaller farm, home to this cru, is cultivated by Gertrud Vogel following to biodynamic methods.

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