Dao and its elegant Chinese bistrot

by Iolanda Maggio 05/31/23
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Dao Bistrot - piatti

The Shu family doubles down and opens Dao Bistrot in Bologna Square, an establishment that always respects the Chinese tradition in the kitchen, maintaining the quality of Dao Restaurant, but with a more convivial and youth-friendly proposition.

Once it was Rome's Dragone d'Oro, a landmark for college kids in the area, one of those cheap "eighties" Chinese restaurants that we could all afford. How many times did I go there too, not so much for the food which was not bad, but for the kindness of the owners and the homey atmosphere that I missed so much in those days. Alas, quite a few years have passed, and the Shu family has dictated the pace of transformation in the capital of the idea of "battle-hardened" Chinese dining, bringing quality, traditional recipes and even style to the halls of its restaurants.

In 2011, in the Montesacro area, Dao was born, an elegant, understated establishment that immediately catapults you into the Oriental atmosphere, both for the minimalist furnishings, carved wood and beautiful paintings on the walls, and for the welcome of a kindness and friendliness that speaks a language sometimes too distant to us.

Now, last January, Jianguo has doubled down, opening Dao Bistrot in Piazza Bologna, on Ogliastra Street, radically transforming the old Golden Dragon: "I decided to create an establishment that always respects the Chinese tradition in the kitchen, maintaining the quality of Dao Restaurant, but with a more convivial, varied and dynamic proposal designed for a younger audience as well," he tells us enthusiastically.

I went there a few days ago and as I expected I was super satisfied.

The environment is minimalist but not cold, the dark colors make the rooms cozy, all the staff is very friendly and smiling. The cuisine is as promised that of big brother Dao but in a more casual key. The menu is more streamlined but there is no shortage of the magnificent selection of dumplings that are a must, the nice big bao, steamed or grilled, and also an interesting selection of Chinese vegetable side dishes. The advice here is to order everything together and share with all diners. Let's untie ourselves from the notion of "appetizer, main course, and main course" and enjoy nibbling from the various dishes ordered in no particular order just as the Oriental tradition dictates.

And so here comes to the table the legendary Chinese Pizza with wheat flour garnished with fermented vegetables and meat, thin, crispy, flavorful. The crispy rolls stuffed with vegetables, the open shrimp dumplings - not to be missed. Still I continue with the griddled dumplings stuffed with pork and vegetables and the pork-stuffed bao with smoked sauce (get a portion for two because the size is nice and big). I try Mrs. Song's invigorating soup with sea bass, bamboo and Chinese mushrooms and again the rice dumplings which are one of my favorite dishes. Desserts, too, are not left to chance: I taste an exquisite rice bon bon filled with pistachios and cashews and two scoops of Moutai ice cream, the highly prized Chinese sorghum brandy. 

In any case, Dao Bistrot is still evolving, the very talented sommelier Hiromi Nakayama tells me: "we are also planning to devote a large space to teas and infusions made with medicinal herbs that have so many beneficial properties" (especially for us women). There are about 20 wines on the list, well selected to match the dishes.

They also have an interesting "quick lunch" formula, consisting of two pieces of dumplings, white rice, half a portion of sweet and sour chicken or pork and a vegetable for the price of 13.00 euros, which is really advantageous these days.

In short to pull the strings, the new Dao Bistrot in Bologna Square has replaced our beloved Golden Dragon very well, a piece of the heart is gone in a way but in its place there is now a nice whiff of quality and the same wonderful feeling of being pampered and somehow "at home."

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