Quality always and first, even in yeasts

Word of Nicola Noschese, a yeast maker by profession, who reminds us of the central role of yeast in traditional Italian desserts, first and foremost Christmas desserts.

Christmas and Easter are the so-called holy days. In addition to bringing families together, for better or worse, around the tables on both occasions, one cannot avoid buying (and tasting) traditional sweets. One above all: the sweet yeast! Whether it's Panettoni, Colombe, Veneziane, Ofelle or Pandori (I'm from Verona so I'm sorry but, Pandoro is not to be touched!) matters little, as long as they are present. 

For years now, reference pastry shops and great chefs have been signing leavened pastries, clearing the way for them to be necessarily cheap and standardized sweets (although big mass retail brands do not fail to make more than decent products). The direct consequence is that they have turned into elitist products to which they are sometimes attributed a rather considerable cost. A few prices found online to give you an idea: 58€ for Antonino Cannavacciuolo's, from 43 to 85€ for Iginio Massari's, 49€ for Cracco's, 55€ for Da Vittorio's, and so on and so forth. Quality products, we would be sure, for which equally praiseworthy and sought-after ingredients have been chosen. They range from PDO to PGI ingredients, all with a precise geographical derivation and an individuality to defend.

Whether you like dried fruit, candied or semi-candied fruit, chocolate or the use of liqueurs or even wine to unite all those products there is one thing and one thing only: the central role of yeast. Responsible for their fluffiness, digestibility (or otherwise) and palatability; these elements combine to make them simply irresistible products! 

Therefore, to understand how to make the choice of the perfect Panettone, or great leavened cake that is, I interviewed another great figure in the leavening scene. He calls himself a "leavener" by profession. He is the yeast whisperer, and I tasted one of his doves and was literally mesmerized by the perfect blend of elements. I was not only impressed by the flavors and that perfectly calibrated sweetness but also by the human being who was able to transport me into his world and make me taste it from a different point of view. That is why Nicola Noschese, of the eponymous bakery and pastry shop in the province of Salerno (https://noschesebakery.it/), is the expert I wanted to interview to discover a few more secrets of the art of leavening.

DoctorWine: Profession and when you start doing this work.
Nicola Noschese: My approach in this field began at a young age, at first only with curiosity then, with study and professionalism; in fact, once I finished my studies I began to be part of this small business that over the years has grown more and more, working alongside my father (the family business began in 1969) I learned the secrets of the trade, the practice of the profession, the search for quality. Mine is a story of tradition love, craftsmanship and passion.

DW: So is it more passion or work?
NN: Absolutely passion.

DW: Why lievitist? What does it mean to you?
NN: Leavening for me is study, expertise and technical training. An approach since the 1990s when yeast control was still done without instrumentation and science. For me to be a yeast maker is to possess a talent, to then know how to design a product in the best form. 

DW: What is your favorite time of year?
NN: Christmas for sure.

DW: So speaking of Christmas, your best seller?
NN: The big leavened item: Panettone, which then becomes Colomba for Easter.

DW: Best food/wine pairing with a sweet leavened product?
NN: The sommeliers will get mad, but from my point of view, with a sweet leavened product like a classic Panettone, a classic method bubble really appeals to me. Even better if Champagne. I like how the hints of refermentation, the citrusy and floral and sometimes even buttery ones go with the panettone enhancing it. A Moscato d'Asti, for those seeking additional sweetness, is also a great classic in my opinion. Of course, the wine must also be good, there is little to be done.

DW: Let's come to the trickiest question of all...candied fruit yes or no?
NN: Candied no, semi-candied yes! 

DW: Twist and turns! Then reveal what it is and what is the secret to a good semicandito.
NN: A good semicandito is softer and wetter. That's how it has to be to retain more of the flavor and taste of the original fruit.

DW: What makes a good panettone an excellent panettone?
NN: A good panettone must have a good flavor base, using excellent raw materials. Consequently, even the yeast, which is an ingredient, determines whether a panettone is excellent or not. This is the real secret of a yeast maker!

DW: In your opinion, was it good or bad that so many celebrity kitchen chefs signed panettone cakes?
NN: In my opinion, it doesn't matter who signs a panettone, it could also be a pizza maker, a baker and I would even feel admiration... the important thing is to know how to use the ingredients and especially the use of quality products to create real beauty. You lose the sense of this when too large numbers intervene in terms of marketing. Inevitably you lower the quality of the product and the use of notoriety and fame is only for profit. The goal of making something good and beautiful is lost. To sum up...quality always and first!

DW: Panettone only at Christmas or all year round?
NN: In my opinion Panettone at Christmas. It marks and characterizes a very specific period. All year round you can make seasonal variations but we will call them something else. 

DW: Thank you Nicola, for your honesty and for making our mouths water.
NN: Now we just have to scout out the perfect Panettone for us!