The third path of Pinot Nero from Podere della Civettaja

by Francesco Annibali 05/30/17
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La terza via al Pinot Nero del Podere della Civettaja

The secret of this Pinot Nero from Podere della Civettaja in the Casentino Valley in Tuscany is that it has none the exasperating research found in those from Burgundy nor any of the ‘muscular’ caricatures common to the variety.

The image on the label of a medieval farmer with his hands lifted to the sky is a clue that this will be a revelation, something different from the Pinot Nero you are used to. The Casentino Valley is near the border with the region of Romagna and thanks to the mountains is cool (in every sense). Vincenzo Tommasi, a winemaker whose road to Damascus was Vosne-Romanée, initiated a wine project here that will surely be successful.

Aside from the natural/artisanal approach - which involves organic farming methods, spontaneous fermentation and no clarification nor filtration – what is striking about this Pinot Noir 2014 is that it represents a ‘third path’ between the exasperating research done in Burgundy, involving winemaking in reduction, and the caricature of the wine made from this grape in the region 20 years ago, when it was woody and the grapes were picked too late or had too many extracts.

Tommasi went a step beyond (in the future it will become clear how much is to his merit and how much the territory) and he was able to bring together the chiaroscuro characteristics of the varietal with the fragrance and traits of fruit which could bring to mind certain French wines. The result is a wine that is already one of the best Pinot Nero in Italy.

Podere della Civettaja 
Titolare : Vincenzo Tommasi
Via di Casina Rossa, 5/a - Località Romena
52015 Pratovecchio (AR)
Tel. +39 339 7098418

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