Italiano
Out and about in Valle Isarco
Let us introduce you to two important Alto Adige producers situated in the northernmost part of Valle Isarco: Pacherhof and Abbazia di Novacella.
When one thinks of Alto Adige wine, what comes to mind is the entire province of Bolzano and, in effect, 98.8% of all the vineyard land in Alto Adige (the highest percentage in all of Italy) is found in the province’s two DOC appellations: Alto Adige and Lago di Caldaro, along with the northern sector of the Valdadige appellation, shared with Trentino. One often forgets that within the Alto Adige appellation, the most varied, there exist some very specific subzones with different characteristics and wines: Valle Isarco, Santa Maddalena, Terlano, Merano, Val Ventosa and Colli di Bolzano.
The valley that stretches from Bolzano to Brenner, the one hosting the motorway, is Valle Isarco and is the northeast branch of the appellation. Its northern climate makes it ideal for cultivating white wine grapes and, in fact, appellation regulations call for only white grapes: Kerner, Sylvaner and Müller-Thurgau, authentic local varieties, along with Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer.
I had the opportunity of going to the northernmost part of the valley, past Bressanone, to visit two estates that in some ways are the opposite of each other: Pacherhof, a family-run estate that produces 130,000 bottles a year; and Abbazia di Novacella, owned by the Augustian Order with an annual production of 750,000 bottles.
Andreas Huber, who heads the family estate, only cultivates white grapes from old vines (his grandfather was one of the winemaking pioneers in the valley) in vineyards that sit from 500m above sea level and rise up to as high as 900m. “Aromatic and semi-aromatic wines are the future,” Andrea told us, adding that the varietals for them are Riesling, Sylvaner, Kerner and Sauvignon. “It was Edmund Mach who suggested Austro-German varietals for this valley, but until 2000 it was too cold for Riesling”, while now one goes as high as 900 to ensure sufficient acidity. A new winery in the area of Rodengo will turn out a sparkling wine, produced in collaboration with Enrico Paternoster, of the Edmund Mach Foundation. Andreas considers him to be one of his mentors, together with Giorgio Grai, who taught him the concept of vin de reserve, to be used to correct the acidity in poor years.
Abbazia di Novacella has been managing winegrowing in the valley since the Middle Ages, with vast properties that expanded until its partial dissolution in the 19th century. But even after this, local growers would bring their grapes to the convent. Today, production uses grapes from the 35 hectares of vineyards the estate owns and around 60 hectares managed by a cooperative of winemakers, monitored by the Abbazia’s agronomist all year long. The vineyards are spread throughout Alto Adige, with white grapes from Valle Iscaro and red ones from Appiano. The most representative of their wines remain the whites made with grapes from their valley, all of excellent quality.
Of the various wines we tasted we suggest the following:
Pacherhof
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Private Cuvée 2018
94/100 - € 35
40% Riesling, 35% Sauvignon and 25% Veltliner. The grapes are fermented separately, the Riesling in stainless steel and the Veltliner and Sauvignon in wood, after which they are blended. The wine has a straw-yellow color with green reflections. The bouquet has a complexity deriving from the different varietals, with intense floral notes of elderflower, cut grass, a delicate smokiness and hints of white pepper and lime. The mouthfeel is fresh and flavorful, with an excellent progression. An elegant wine with a nice balance between the acidity and softness.
Pacherhof
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner Riserva Alte Reben 2019
93/100 - € 28
100% Sylvaner. Matured for a year in 12hl barrels, 30% of which are new wood. A distinct yellow color with green reflections. An intense and diversified nose with delicate fruit (white peach and pear), wild flowers and fresh notes of anise. The mouthfeel is very fresh and taut, agile and saline, progressive and with a youthful finish.
Pacherhof
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Kerner 2020
92/100 - € 17
100% Kerner. Half is matured in wood, 95% oak and 5% acacia. A straw-green color. The aroma has notes of flint, gooseberry, white peach and lime. The mouthfeel is very sharp, taut and flavorful, simple and balanced, a pleasing drop.
Abbazia di Novacella
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner Praepositus 2019
93/100 - € 18
100% Sylvaner. Made in stainless steel. A straw-green color. A very intense, fruity aroma of apple and pear accompanied by balsamic notes of aromatic herbs and anise. The mouthfeel is rich, elegant, with a full and deep structure and a persistent finish.
We also tasted the 2012 (buttery and less dynamic) and the 2006 (iodine and lively)
Abbazia di Novacella
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Grüner Veltliner Praepositus 2019
92/100 - € 18
100% Grüner Veltliner. Made in stainless steel. A straw-green color. The bouquet is a mixture of spice scents and those of kiwi and lime. The mouthfeel is creamy and fresh, vibrant, with a nice structure and a lovely spicy finish.
We also tasted the 2015 (complex, a lovely and dynamic expression) and the 2011 (not very intense, suffered more from the hot year).
Abbazia di Novacella
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Kerner Praepositus 2019
94/100 - € 18
100% Kerner. Made in stainless steel. An intense greenish color. A very clear bouquet with notes of white pepper, white peach, peppermint and green apple. A flavorful mouthfeel, biting and agile with a long and almost mentholated finish.
We also tasted the 2016 (almondy and less dynamic) and the 2012 (a tad tired).
Abbazia di Novacella
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Riesling Praepositus 2019
94/100 - € 25
100% Riesling, with 10% of the grapes from a late harvest. Made in stainless steel. A distinct straw color. The bouquet has notes of grapefruit, white fruit, gooseberry and floral nuances. The mouthfeel is very fresh and elegant, structured and yet agile, with an excellent, silky persistence.
The other two vintages we tasted were a 2013 (very interesting, between citrusy and hydrocarbons, elegant and mature) and the 2007, the first year produced, simple and light.
