The new wave of Mamoiada

Federica Dessolis is a 27-year-old producer who, after several stays abroad, has returned to Mamoiada to run the family business with her younger brother Francesco.
That Mamoiada is one of the most vibrant and productive centers in the Sardinian wine industry is a well-known fact. Lots of new wineries (34 in a town of just over 2,000 inhabitants), new vineyards, and a development of the supply chain that is surprising the Mamoiadini themselves. The interesting thing is that many of these new companies have been created by young and very young winemakers.
Most recent is the 'Esole winery of Federica Dessolis and her younger brother Francesco. Federica's story is emblematic of this nouvelle vague of young island producers. Twenty-seven years old, she graduated from the Faculty of Oenology in Oristano after which she moved first to Loire and then to Burgundy where she took the oenology course at the DNO in Dijon. Since December 2018 he has been working at Vincent Girardin and then moved in July 2020 to Domaine de la Romanée Conti. To finish an experience at one of the most famous wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Marcoux.
Meanwhile, he follows at a distance the family vineyard (two hectares, one of which is about 60 years old and a new one planted in 2000) with the prospect, however, of returning to work in Mamoiada, and it is no coincidence that the name 'Esole is the translation in Mamoiada dialect of Dessolis. And here perhaps it is appropriate to emphasize this very strong bond, for better or worse, that Mamoiadinians have with their village. Federica is a kind of model of a Sardinian girl: studious, strong-willed, professional, ambitious and with very clear ideas about her future.
Her first wines are a clear manifesto of this. Tradition yes, but applying what she has learned over the years, and thus the search for a new way forward for Cannonau from Mamoiada: careful work in the vineyard to keep the alcohol content under control, fresher wines with great tension and character aimed at emphasizing the differences between one vineyard and another, shrewd use of the whole cluster, no fear of experimenting with woods of various types and sizes. In short, bold and innovative choices that are opening up a new vision of cannonau from Mamoiada.
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'Esole Federica Dessolis
Rosso di Barbagia Ghirada Garaunele A 2021
96/100 - € 40
100% Cannonau, matura in botte da 700 litri per 10 mesi, 1/3 grappolo intero. Granato intenso. I profumi sono larghi e nitidi di buccia di arancia, china e grafite che sottolineano più le sfumature scure e di terra che quelle fruttate. Al palato grande tensione e austerità con tannini evidenti (tipici della contrada Garaunele) ma perfettamente maturi, ma quello che colpisce è la freschezza, il dinamismo di questo vino che pure evidenzia un volume di tutto rispetto. Il finale è sapido, vibrante e profondo e di un equilibrio impeccabile.