Italiano
Osso San Grato, an old fashioned Gattinara (2)
The second part of our interview with Lorella Antoniolo (the first published yesterday) will include a vertical tasting of Gattinara Osso San Grato.
Doctor Wine: Has climate change improved the overall quality of wines in such a northern area?
Lorella Antoniolo: Back in the 1970s and ‘80s, the climate around here was much cooler, with cold winters and springs will abundant rainfall. This made it difficult to achieve a good level of alcohol and the acidity was at time excessive. Thus the exposure of a vineyard was even more influential than today. Warmer temperatures and milder seasons have practically eliminated these problems with tannins becoming always more elegant and the level of alcohol at times even too high.
DW: It is almost impossible to find news online about Gattinara and the other great wines of northern Piedmont.
LA: This is true but the situation is changing and today much more information is available than even just a few years ago. Local farmers, especially in the past, have always been somewhat reserved, even shy. And they have certainly never sought to stand out or seek notoriety. Personally, I have a fondness for this way of life and consider it to be more concrete. We currently do not have website and I kind of regret this.
One does not necessarily need to be excessively present to demonstrate their worth. However, times have changed and there is an ever-growing demand for information and communication. On the downside, this can allow anyone to say what they want and ‘sell’ any information without any control on veracity. In any case, we are also working on this problem and the situation should change in the short term for us as well as others in the area. News and information will become more ample and available.
DW: Boca, Bramaterra, Ghemme, Gattinara, Costa della Sesia and so on. Are we trying to be like Burgundy or just creating confusion for the consumer?
LA: For sure ten appellations in a zone as small as ours, divided among four provinces, may seem to be too many. At the same time, it is also true that many of them are distinctly different with unique terroirs. And this is a great historical reality that would be a shame to lose. It is possible that there may be some small changes in the future. At the risk of appearing a little conceited, we could define ourselves as a little Burgundy. Then again, our Nebbiolo wines are often compared those of that French province due to their similarities.
DW: What are Gattinara’s best markets? This also in considering its vicinity to such important markets for quality wine as Milan, Turing and Canton Ticino.
LA: Our estate’s most important markets are abroad where we export 80% of our production. Among our historic markets is the United States where we have been present since the 1970s. Then there are the markets of Japan, Canada, Switzerland, Norway, Denmark and France. We are also exporting to emerging Asian market like South Korea and Taiwan.
As for Italy, Milan is certainly a good market for us and we have been distributing there for over 50 years. Turin is a small but expanding market while we are practically non-existent in Canton Ticino.
All the following wines are 100% made from Nebbiolo and age for three years in barrels.
