A report on Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne 2018

Our correspondent offers his views on the most important event dedicated to Burgundy wines. The 2016 reds (we will deal with the whites next week) are austere but have a crystalline purity. Unfortunately, the wines are not easy to come by and cost a fortune.

March 12-16 saw the 14th edition of the most important and complete event dedicated to Burgundy wines: Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne. Over 1,000 producers were divided into 14 halls where they offered a tasting of over 10,000 wines to more than 2,600 visitors who were exclusively professionals and came from 54 different countries.

The wines offered were above all vintage 2016 along with some 2015 when it came to the reds. In regard to quantity, 2016 was the smallest year in the past 20 with as much as a 60% drop for Chablis and 50% decline for Cotes de Nuits, while the famous producer Bruno Clair producied only 8hl per hectare from his most prestigious vineyards.

The reasons for this were the damaging spring frosts along with devastating hail storms. Quality, on the other hand, was another story and tastings so far have shown a level difficult to match in recent years. Both the whites and the reds are very ”classic” and thus elegant, fresh and austere yet with a good structure and a crystalline purity. The only shortcomings are the difficulty in obtaining bottles and their prices that are significantly higher than even the already high prices of 2015.

99/100

Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2016: this has amazing finesse beginning with its delicate bouquet of floral aromas and spice. The mouthfeel has unmatchable elegance and tension. A classic Burgundy at is best.

98/100

Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg Grand Cru 2016: austerity and sweetness, boldness and absolute balance, maturity and freshness and a dense and lively mouthfeel. The definition of perfection. Impossible price.

Bruno Clair Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2016: the few bottles made of this vintage are precious jewels of crystalline purity. Spice and floral sensations compliment a solid yet delicate and amazingly multifaceted structure. The tannins are pure silk and elegant, implacable energy.

97/100

Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2015: take the bad things you have rightfully heard about vintage 2015 and throw them out the window. This austere wine with is notes of cinchona and graphite has a solid and elegant mouthfeel and great freshness. The tannins are so fine that they do not seem to be of this year. The finish is long and elegant.

J. Confuron-Cotetidot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2016: the intense aromas are of graphite and flowers and the mouthfeel is austere and saline with very great tension. The tannins are significant but nicely profiled with a dynamic and deep finish.

Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux Grand Cru 2016: gutsy beginning with its aromas of graphite, spice and dark fruit. The mouthfeel is vibrant, complex and wonderfully relaxed.

De Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taille Pieds 2016: mellow aromas of flowers, spice and graphite. The mouthfeel has a superior finesse with elegant tannins and an energy that seems boundless. Drinking this is a rare pleasure.

96/100

Château de la Tour Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2016: a complex and austere nose, formidable yet balanced mouthfeel with bold but mature tannins and an amazing progression. The finish is infinite.

Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux Grand Cru 2016: absolute elegance with a multifaceted and delicate aromatic profile while the mouthfeel is a caress of silky tannins with fresh and juicy fruits and a complex and wrapping finish.

Launay-Horiot Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Bas 2016: a complex bouquet with notes of small dark fruit, spice and graphite. The mouthfeel is meaty with mature and fleeting tannins and the finish is juicy and elegant.

Michel Mallard et Fils Corton Grand Cru Le Rognet 2016: captivating beginning with its oriental scents and notes of graphite. The full mouthfeel has great “sweetness” and tension and tannins that are silky to say the least. The finish is meaty, elegant and taut.

Benjamin Lerou Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016: austere aromas of cinchona and graphite, a mouthfeel of crystalline purity and extremely fine tannins, a bracing and dynamic structure and very long depth. A reflections of this great terroir.

95/100

David Duband Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2016: an explosive and elegant nose with floral notes and those of red fruit. The mouthfeel is pure elegance with its soft and juicy tannins, distinct progression and fresh and saline finish.

Launay-Horiot Chambertin Grand Cru 2016: explosive fruit and graphite aromas, bold yet harmonious mouthfeel with sweet tannins and a fresh and very long finish.

Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru 2016: intense and fine aromas of spice and graphite. A dense yet flowing mouthfeel and soft tannins making it very elegant. The finish is austere, quick and long.

Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées 2016: in line with the Maison’s style, this is a wine of great finesse, with delicate and wrapping aromas and a mouthfeel softened by silky tannins and a distinct progression.

Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2016: austere, elegant and great class. In short, a Clos des Lambrays.

De Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Le Grand Clos des Epenots 2016: austere aromas of graphite and cinchona usher in a mouthfeel with a bold yet agile structure, quick with great elegance and dynamism. The finish is taut and endless.

Comte Senard Corton Grand Cru Clos des Meix Monopole 2016: a wrapping bouquet with notes of spice and cinchona. The mouthfeel is full and meaty with sweet tannins and very long and fresh finish.

Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges 2016: elegance distinguishes the style of this domaine and this wine is a prime example. Mellow floral and graphite aromas, a juicy mouthfeel with fine tannins and great tension.

Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2015: a stratification of aromatic herbs and cinchona. A creamy, bold, almost severe yet relaxed and vibrant mouthfeel. A wine with an unmistakable personality.

Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos du Fonteny 2016: complex nose with notes of spice and rhubarb. The mouthfeel has a caressing elegance with soft tannins and an amazing tension. The finish is very long and complex.

94/100

Jean Tardy et Fils Echezeaux Grand Cru 2016: a classic Echezeaux with delicate notes of graphite softened by those of spice and fragrant fruit. The mouthfeel is juicy and nervous with darting tannins and an elegant finish.

Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Le Cras 2016: an explosion of floral and spice notes usher in an elegant and juicy mouthfeel with sharp tannins. The finish is relaxed, long and aristocratic.

Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Le Saint-Georges 2016: a bouquet with notes of graphite, humus and blackberry. The bold mouthfeel is almost “earthy” yet balanced, meaty and decidedly relaxed with a juicy and brilliant long finish.

93/100

Forey Père et Fils Echezeaux Grand Cru 2016: austere to the point of being severe with notes of spice and cinchona. The mouthfeel is taut and has significant volume with evident yet balanced tannins. A dynamic and quick finish. A wine with great personality.

Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2016: suave aromas of flowers, spice and licorice. A fresh and wrapping mouthfeel with delicate tannins and an endless progression. Captivating.

Rapet Corton Grand Cru 2016: juicy and flavorful with literally silky tannins and an elegant and dynamic progression.

92/100

Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2016: the style of this estate is shifting away from extracts and towards more balanced tones. Fine and delicate aromas with a subtle yet vibrant and juicy mouthfeel. A sharp and long finish.

Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons 2016: an austere nose with earthy notes and those of cinchona. The mouthfeel has a full yet harmonious and flavorful structure. The tannins are compact but mature and the finish is vibrant and earthy.