Eggs in many ways

Hard-boiled, scrabbled, sunny-side up, Benedict, soft-boiled and poached, these are just some of the way to prepare one of the world’s most versatile of foods.

The variety of ways an eggs can be prepared has now allowed it to become the star of a full menu and an entire restaurant. Eggs, in fact, is the name of a new restaurant in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood that has opened where the Pianostrada restaurant, which has moved across the river, used to be. And it is the creation of the three partners behind ZUM – an acronym of Zucchero (sugar), Uova (eggs) and Mascarpone, a street food tiramisu – and Puntarella Rossa, an online food, wine and restaurant guide that began focusing on Rome but has since expanded its marque - a fat, little red devil with a pitchfork – throughout Italy. And so after judging other restaurants in Rome and elsewhere, Puntarella Rossa has now put its signature on its own creation which, judging by its menu, promises to have the same informal and laidback style that brought the site its success. After several name changes – including Bistrovo, Spazio Uovo and Poché– and a renovation of the local, bringing in modern and original touches, Eggs is ready to offer eggs and much more from lunch through dinner.

The egg – not just from chickens but also quails, fish and ostrich – is the star of the menu created by Chef Barbara Agosti, from Rome’s Ritrovo del Gusto restaurant, which is full of dynamic and fun alternatives to play with. There is, for example, the “Gioco dell’Ova” (Egg Game) which is a taste itinerary of six egg dish choices; and “Non Uovo”, a play on words meaning no eggs and not new, which has a base of Parmigiano and a carrot and orange mousse. Special mention needs to be made of their Carbonara that is taken so seriously that a host of variations and colors have been created to merited it a menu of its own, the “Carta della Carbonara”. Yellow, green, purple and black are just some of nuances achieved using different ingredients including saffron pistils, crispy artichoke, purple potatoes and truffles. You can also have a Carbonara “a modo tuo” (your own way), choosing the type of pasta and type of eggs you want. This may all be a bit too much for Carbonara purists who can, however, opt for the classic version made with top-quality ingredients beginning with Parisi, L'Uovo e la Canapa or Peppovo eggs, Dol bacon jowl and Felicetti pasta. Many quality suppliers are listed on the menu, from Beppe and his cheeses to Benedetto Cavalieri, from Casale dei Pini to Manaide’s fish specialties.  

There is also a retro “C’era una Volta” (Once Upon a Time) selection, a blast to the past with eggs prepared the old-fashioned way like Zabaione, eggs beaten with coffee, eggs alla Bismark or Vitel tonné. The dynamic and curious menu should be read in full and aside from the Carbonara and other offerings includes a wine list. It includes many sparkling wines because they pair so well with eggs, thanks to the effervescence cutting the coating thickness of the eggs. Aside from the many Champagne and Franciacorta wines there is also an interesting selection of other sparkling wines like Crémant. There are four “sotto azoto” (always cold) bubblies served by the glass through an Enomatic wine dispenser the selection of which changes constantly. Puntarella Rossa has also put its name on a small selection of natural wines and on the menu there are some suggestions for pairing, based on the conviction that “the best pairing is with what you like”.

Eggs opened its doors on March 8 on Via del Cedro 26 - Rome.