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Wine Community / Vignadelmar | Published DoctorWine N°21
Fattoria Le Terrazze (2): Muscles and Strength
by Vignadelmar 27-09-2013

We continue this long review with Chaos, a blend of mostly Montepulciano with variable amounts of Merlot and Syrah depending on the year. While you may not have had this wine for a long time you should remember its labels, very colorful fractals that changed every year. I said in the previous article how this could be considered an ancient régime wine, be it because it is muscular, because of the blend or due to the fact that is faithfully recalls the big wines I liked so much in my youth. I admit it, I still like those big wines just as long as they have something communicate to be about their territory and grapes. I know that many have repudiated certain tastes and just the mention that wood was used, even if for only a short time in a barrique, makes them turn up their nose.

After tasting five vintages of Chaos we will move on to the best, Vision of J, a wine that is once again pure Montepulciano, produced only when the year is exceptional. In fact, up until now only four vintages have been made: 1997, 2001, 2004 and 2006. We tried the first three and I can guarantee you that these alone would have justified the trip.

So, fasten your seat belts, we are vertically soaring towards almost impossible heights. The other day I was needling Alessandro Bocchetti over which Italian region, Abruzzo or Marche, made the best Montepulciano. In Abruzzo there is the wine of Valentini, an authentic master, but the Marche has Kurni and Vision of J… what would you say?
 

 
Chaos 2005
Marche Igt
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 89
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

The blend of this wine changes depending on the year and in this case no Syrah was added, making it an almost equal mix between Montepulciano and Merlot. Like all of this estate’s wine, this needed a little time before revealing its lovely dark color and even darker reflections. The mouthfeel was, as usual, sumptuous and expressive with the Montepulciano dominating with its boldness and highlighted by spicy returns, above all black pepper. The aroma has some nice ripe fruit.

20 euros
 

 
Chaos 2004
Marche Igt
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 83
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

Wood plays an important role for this vintage and it is not totally ‘digested’ and perhaps never will be. Still it is a nice wine with a vegetal imprint in its aroma, while the flavor has wild accents and good tannins that in part still need to be rounded off. I would not call this an unforgettable year.

23 euros
 

 
Chaos 2001
Marche Igt
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 90
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

The wine made a comeback with this vintage despite some problems with the cork. The mouthfeel has an almost frightening elegance and drinkability and is, at the same time, sweet, soft and spicy. The bouquet is intriguing, almost spicy with all its components in the right place. The use of wood was most skillful, making it a wine to drink and then drink some more.

30 euros
 

 
Chaos 2000
Marche Igt
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 88
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

This was the darkest of the lot and was particularly strange, I’d go so far as to say it was green. In this vintage the Montepulciano plays a lesser role, making it not as meaty nor dense and creating a wine more slender than usual. This may add to its drinkability but it is not the Chaos we are used to and prefer. Let’s just say it has its’ own story to tell.

30 euros
 

 
Chaos 1997
Marche Igt
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 91
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

Antonio Terni allowed us to taste the first vintage he produced. It was a year generally considered to be ‘important’ and this bottle confirmed this by being still in fine form, very bold, quite peppery and with an award-winning, elegant persistence with tannins that were still a bit hard. The aroma changed minute by minute demonstrating a truly broad spectrum. Wonderful.

20 euros
 

 
Vision of J 2004
Conero Docg Riserva
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 91
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

A very dark wine, pitch black. But as the other vintages will show there is something even darker than pitch. The tannins are really thick, hard, while the mouthfeel has devastating boldness due to its headiness and irrepressible fruit. The aroma is balsamic, spicy, mushroom-like and continues to play on dark, unsettled notes. It’s hard to believe but I’d say this vintage is still not ready, it has yet to fully reveal its’ immense potential. Needless to say, it is already very good but it can still improve. A Vision of J needs many years to come of age.

35 euros
 

 
Vision of J 2001
Rosso Conero Doc
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 89
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

Now here is an example of how pitch dark can still have light. The wine is beautiful to look at with lovely reflections, although something is off in the aroma. It has evolved somewhat, not enough to spoil the spectrum of the bouquet but enough to dirty it a bit. The mouthfeel, on the other hand, is explosive, meaty, and chewy, with very elegant and well-laid out tannins, all in order like marching soldiers. It only just falls short of total excellence.

50 euros
 

 
Vision of J 1997
Rosso Conero Doc
Fattoria le Terrazze

Rating » 96
Category » Red
Region » Marche
Country » Italy

I am at a loss on how to describe such a good wine. What I can say is that the color is an authentic black hole that attracts and absorbs any nearby ray of light. And while its’ expressive power may be devastating, it has the agility of a ballet dancer. The mouthfeel is very long and very elegant, an array of perfectly ripe fruit, cinchona, fine chocolate and roots. The aroma has extremely violent balsamic notes, mushroom, sweet spice, damp earth and licorice. All this comes into complete harmony in the glass, an immense gift. My primal instinct would be to rate it 100/100, but that will have to wait many years to when we will drink it again.

Price: Buy it if you can find it
 

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Fattoria le Terrazze
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Via Musone, 4
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